Ever heard of operant conditioning?

Occasionally when talking to us dog trainer types you will hear us using what may seem to

be some baffling terms... the following are some of the most common and are all to do with how dogs and most species, including humans, learn.

Operant conditioning

Classical conditioning

Un/Conditioned stimuli

Un/Conditioned response

Positive reinforcement 

Negative reinforcement

Positive punishment

Negative punishment

But what do all these terms mean, a good trainer will take the time to explain these terms to you but in case you find yourself confused by doggy mumbo jumbo then here is a brief introduction to the mysteries of learning theory.

Modern dog training methods are founded on a concept called conditioning. There are two types of conditioning, classical and operant – both of which dogs respond to.

Simply put, classical conditioning is responsible for involuntary responses, e.g. a dog salivating when food is served, while operant conditioning is responsible for voluntary responses, e.g. a dog sitting for a treat.

Classical conditioning was pioneered in the late 19^th century by Ivan Pavlov. Pavlov showed that when dogs smelled food saliva was released in anticipation. He called the food an unconditioned stimulus and the salivating the unconditioned response. Unconditioned because the dogs were responding automatically to the stimulus - they had not been trained to do so. Pavlov was an inquisitive kind of chap and soon discovered that if he rang a bell on a regular basis before feeding the dogs the dogs soon started to salivate at the sound of the bell. The bell had become a conditioned stimulus and the dogs’ salivating a conditioned response. Prior to linking the bell ringing to the food the dogs did not salivate when a bell rang - that is to say that the bell did not naturally produce salivation, the dogs had to be conditioned in order to salivate upon hearing the bell ring.

Pavlov went on to show that it was possible to build an association between an unconditioned and a conditioned stimulus so that either would elicit the same involuntary response. He called this association between the stimuli classical conditioning.

At around the same time that Pavlov was working on the theory of classical conditioning two Americans, Edward Lee Thorndyke and B.F. Skinner, were working on operant conditioning. Where classical conditioning forms an association between two stimuli to elicit a response, operant conditioning forms an association between a behaviour and a consequence. (You might also come across operant conditioning referred to as response-stimulus or RS conditioning because we are forming an association between the animal's response [behaviour] and the stimulus that follows [consequence])

Typically classical conditioning is used to change a dog’s emotional state. It can help the dog to feel positive about potentially negative situations or objects, such as nail clippers or a visit to the vet.

Operant conditioning is the science that lies behind the positive, reward based methods of training most modern dog trainers prefer. At its most basic operant conditioning is the modification of behaviour through the use of consequences (reinforcers and punishers). Operant conditioning differs from classical conditioning in that it deals with changing operant or 'voluntary' behaviour as opposed to reflexive 'involuntary' behaviour. That being said, whenever you're dealing with changing behaviours, operant and classical conditioning can work hand-in-hand. 

Operant conditioning has two main tools for modifying behaviour - reinforcement and punishment. Reinforcers increase behaviour, while punishers decrease a behaviour. These operate in two contexts - positive and negative. In this case, positive refers to addition; negative refers to subtraction.

What is a reinforcer?

A reinforcer is a rewarding stimulus that will increase the desired behaviour. A reinforcer can be food or it can be a variety of other things including toys, freedom to roam, walks, play, affection and much more.

Different stimuli will have different results depending on a variety of factors such as the dog, the trainer, the environment, the trigger event, how the stimulus is applied.

How and what a dog learns is also highly dependent on timing (when a stimulus is applied), and frequency (how often a stimulus is applied). Generally, we want to apply the reward as close to the target behaviour as possible.

There are three main components of operant conditioning:

Reinforcement 

Something that makes the behavior occur again.

·      Reinforcement can be either positive or negative.

·      Positive reinforcement adds something, such as food, to increase the occurrence of a behaviour.

·      Negative reinforcement removes something to increase the behaviour.

Punishment 

Something that causes a behavior to become less frequent.

·      Punishment can also be positive or negative.

·      Positive punishment is adding something to decrease the occurrence of a behaviour - this is how shock or spray collars and other aversives work.

·      Negative punishment is removing something to decrease the occurrence of a behaviour. So you stop walking with a dog when it pulls, the fun ends and the pulling stops.

Extinction - No consequence to behavior at which point the behavior becomes less frequent.

Doggy body language - how to tell when your dog is uncomfortable

You might think that the only way your dog communicates with the world is through barking, but you'd be wrong. All day long your dog is busy expressing how he feels in a variety of subtle, and sometimes not so subtle, ways. Trouble is most of us humans haven't bothered to learn to speak doggy language...so here is part one in a crash course on understanding your dog's body language.

All of the signs outlined in this post are your dog's way of indicating that he is uncomfortable with the situation he finds himself in. Sometimes you might hear them called 'appeasement gestures' or 'calming signals' - what you call them isn't really important, the fact that you are able to notice them and respond to them accordingly is. As a responsible dog owner you should therefore intervene in order to prevent pushing the dog to the point of aggressing.

A growling dog is a bad/aggressive dog. Isn't it?

A key point to remember is never to punish your dog for showing these signs. We WANT our dogs to show us when they are anxious or uncomfortable. You should therefore NEVER punish a dog for showing that he wants to be left alone by growling, leaving the situation or demonstrating more subtle signs. 

But why? Isn't my dog showing aggression by growling? Shouldn't I tell him off and show him who's boss?

When your dog growls he is communicating very clearly that he is unhappy. Chances are he has been trying to tell you this for a while but lumbering oafs that us humans are you have missed the subtler signals. He is now trying to make it explicit that he wants whatever is going on to stop. Most dogs have several stages of showing their discomfort with a situation before they resort to biting. If you punish a dog for showing this discomfort, be it a growl, looking away, moving away etc you are effectively removing one of these steps from your dog's repertoire. You are therefore reducing the likelihood that your dog will show warning behaviour before going in all guns blazing. The dogs who 'bite out of the blue' are rare, those that truly do have usually been punished for showing warning signs - result = they don't warn they just do. 

The dog who is punished for growling at a child, moving away from a person he is unsure of, not maintaining eye contact still FEELS EXACTLY THE SAME about the situation, but now he has no way to show it and no way out of the situation. Be glad if your dog gives a warning and take steps to modify the situation your dog is reacting to (child approaching/dog approaching/the vet etc), work instead on conditioning your dog to view these events/situations as positive and create safe spaces so your dog can 'escape' if he needs to. 

ONE PAW RAISED

This may look like a cute trick but all too often this is a signal that the dog is not happy. This is a calming signal and is the dog signalling that they are more interested in 'flight' than 'fight.' This is not a time to force your dog to meet other people/dogs. Watch their behaviour, make a note of the situation this occurs in and take steps to address.





A raised paw can mean a variety of different things in doggy language it is therefore important to look at the rest of the dog's body and the context the paw lift is shown in, in order to evaluate the situation.

Just as an indication of the myriad different signals a dog lifting a paw might be giving in Brenda Aloff's book - Canine Body language - paw lifts are classified as:


1. Paw lift w/smile, relaxed mouth = happy dog and in "submissive*" state of mind 
2. Paw lift w/ backwards orientation, rounded back, tucked tail & braced legs = anxious dog doing avoidance behaviour
3. Paw lift w/extreme rounded topline (back), flat ears, lowered head, drawn lips and tucked tail = fearful dog "STOP approaching me"
4. Paw lift w/alert yet relaxed body posture = dog filled with good anticipation
5. Paw lift w/alert, relaxed body and ears erect = curious dog
6. Paw lift w/dog on dog greeting - side by side bodies, half mast ears, relaxed bodies = polite greeting "Hello There"
7. Paw lift w/human greeting, squatting/sitting, ears back, soft eyes, lowered tail = polite human greeting "I'm friendly and respectful" (BA's quote)

You can also see paw lifts when a dog is stalking (prey), targeting, warning, neogtiating a pass by, playing, pointing...the list is endless. Try and get to know what different paw lifts look like and when your dog does them.

(* Here at 4Paws/LDG we prefer to use the term appeasing/non aggressing to submissive and assertive instead of dominant.)

IT'S ALL IN THE EYES
Eyes may be the gateway to the soul but with dogs they are also a great indicator of how he is feeling. Here are some to keep an eye out for...


Half moon/whale eye
Whale eye/half moon eye is what us training types call it when a dog's white of the eye is clearly visible with the eye either goggling or rolled slightly to one side, sometimes with the head averted. This is another sign the dog is uncomfortable and needs some space. This is a very common expression in dogs that are being hugged. If you see the half moon eye when the kids approach the dog or are interacting with the dog, it's time to intervene and give them all something else to do.

This dog is showing a 'half moon eye'

Here is a good example of 'whale eye'









Lip licking
This is one of the most common calming/anxiety signals dogs show. Like so many doggy behaviours what it means varies depending on the context. 

Lip licking can be just a quick tongue flick, but sometimes it can be a more obvious repetitive lapping, both are often accompanied by a turned head. This behaviour usually indicates nervousness and appeasement. The dog is trying to diffuse the situation he finds himself in. 

You may also see a form of lip licking when dogs greet one another, depending on the situation - whether your dog is meeting a friend or another dog for the first time this behaviour can either be an appeasing gesture - 'I'm no threat' - in which case it is often accompanied by rolling onto their back, or a sign of affiliation - sort of like them saying 'hey buddy, we're good right?'. Why not see how many times your dog lip licks and in what context each day?

Yawning and lip-licking, are a type of behaviour commonly categorised as displacement behaviours/appeasement gestures/calming signals. These behaviours are typically 'normal' behaviours displayed in an unexpected context. Usually they indicate conflict and anxiety and are part of a dog's attempt to deflect a perceived threat. The dog wants to do something, but he is suppressing the urge to do it. Instead he replaces the suppressed behaviour with something else such as a lick or a yawn. 

Some examples of such behaviours include:

• Yawning when not tired
• Licking chops without the presence of food 
• Scratching when not itchy
• Biting at paws or other part of his own body
• Sudden sniffing of the ground or other object
• Shake off when not wet or dirty

These are all things that dogs do anyway. The key is to look at the context and see if your dog is offering these behaviours when he might not otherwise be expected to do so.

For example: if it is bedtime and the dog gets up, stretches, yawns and goes to bed, then that yawn was not a displacement behaviour. Compare this with the situation where a child comes over and starts hugging the dog or lying on him and he yawns.

The importance of noting displacement behaviour is that they show you when to intervene. The dog in the above scenario is most likely uncomfortable with the attention he is getting from the children. He wants to get up and walk away, he may even want to bite, but he displaces that with other behaviours such as yawning or licking either the children or himself. In this context you should either prevent whatever was causing the dog to show displacement behaviours from occurring in the future or use positive training techniques to teach the dog to enjoy (not just tolerate) these situations. 


Avoidance behaviours
Some dogs deal with anxiety by attempting to remove themselves from the situation. Never force a dog to stay in a situation in which he feels anxious, especially if children are involved. Here are some examples of avoidance behaviours:

• Getting up and leaving an uncomfortable situation
• Turning head away
• Hiding behind person or object
• Barking and then retreating
• Rolling over to expose his belly

Other body language signs that your dog may be anxious...

His tail is..

between his legs

low and only the end is wagging

between legs and wagging

tail down or straight for curly-tailed dog (eg spitz-type dogs)


His ears are...

sideways (for erect eared dogs)

back and this is accompanied by rapid panting








The dog urinates or defecates - the dog is so anxious they pee/poop themselves in fear. This is usually a signal of extreme stress.

All dogs should have a safe place in the house - such as a crate or mat that they can go to when they want to be left alone. All family members and guests should be taught to respect the dog's space and not to bother the dog when he goes to his safe place. 


More sites to look at:

Dog body language photos and explanations
The eyes have it - what dogs' eyes can tell you about how they are feeling

Dogs don't like hugs and kisses

This is a great post from doggone safe...

Dogs Don't like Hugs and Kisses

Dogs Don't Like Hugs and Kisses!

This is one of Doggone Safe's major messages and probably the one that gives us the most trouble. Many people simply don't believe this and are determined to argue about it.

Some dogs are very tolerant and will allow hugging and kissing, some try to get away, some lick the face of the hugger until they let go and some resort to biting. Some rare dogs do enjoy hugs from a person that they love, who scratches their chest while hugging and who doles out hugs on the dog's terms. There are few if any dogs who enjoy hugs the way kids do it, which is to clasp the dog around the neck and hang on. This is very threatening to a dog. The fact that the dog is uncomfortable or even feeling a threat and the proximity of the child's face to the dog's teeth makes this potentially very dangerous. This is why we recommend that parents teach children to show affection to the dog in ways that do not involve hugs and kisses.

In a study that looked at the reasons for dog bites to children the following was found:

Familiar children were most commonly bitten in relation to food or resource guarding and “benign” interactions such as petting, hugging, bending over, or speaking to the dog.

Read the whole study report. This is something that dog trainers and behaviorists know without having to see any data. From their experience they know that this is a major cause of facial bites and they know from the behavior of dogs that they rarely enjoy hugs and kisses. Author and dog behavior expert Patricia McConnell says in her wonderful book "For the Love of a Dog" that she has at least 50 photos of kids hugging dogs and in not one of them does the dog look happy.

A recently published children's book entitled "Smooch Your Pooch" recommends that kids hug and kiss their dog anytime anywhere. We regard this as dangerous advice and so does the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior and Veterinary Behaviorist Sophia Yin. Dr Yin says:

While this adorably illustrated book, with its sweet, catchy rhymes, is meant to foster affection for pets, the contents as well as the cover illustration teach kids to hug and kiss dogs; this can cause dogs to react aggressively. No one knows that better than Dr. Ilana Reisner, a veterinary behaviorist at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine. Dr. Reisner and her colleagues published a study examining why children get bitten by dogs. Says Reisner, "The recommendations in this children's book -- and even the title of the book -- are potentially dangerous."

That's because many dogs do not like being petted or hugged. They just tolerate it -- at least temporarily.

Read Dr. Yin's article about Smooch Your Pooch and why it is not good idea to encourage kids to hug and kiss dogs.

If you are a person who thinks that your likes hugs and kisses, you can find out for sure by learning about dog body language and observing your dog to see how he reacts to hugs.Visit our website to learn about the signs of an anxious dog and see if your dog exhibits any of these while you are hugging him.

Even if you have one of those rare dogs that does enjoy hugs from your or from kids (very unlikely), there are times when the dog will be less tolerant than at other times. The dog may tolerate or even enjoy a hug on his terms, but sometimes he will not be in the mood. Here is how we explain this to kids:

When you are home at night watching TV or reading a bedtime story you might like to sit on your Mom or Dad's knee or have them whisper "I love you" in your ear or give you a kiss. However if you are out on the soccer field or at school with your friends or acting in the school play you might not want to sit on a parent's lap or have them run out in the middle of the game or the play to whisper in your ear or give you a hug and a kiss. It's the same for dogs. If they are busy doing something, or interested in another dog or a squirrel, or they are tired they may not want to have attention from you that they might enjoy at other times.

The dog that is most tolerant is the dog that is most likely to be subjected repeatedly to unwanted attentions. Dog and child relationship expert Madeline Gabriel calls this "the curse of the good dog". Click here to read more about this important concept and how you can protect your good dog from this curse.

10 tips for dealing with problem behaviour

10 Tips for Problem Behavior

10 basic rules that will help you teach your dog more desirable behavior.

At one time or another, every owner has to deal with problem behavior. Understanding why your dog does what he does, and how to handle the situation correctly can help resolve problems quickly.

Here are some basic guidelines that apply to nearly all problem situations:

Control the dog and you control the situation. By putting on a training collar and lead, you can control the dog. For many dogs, their training equipment means business, not playtime, and this can help in a problem situation. A dog who is on lead cannot run away or chase people or other animals, and his owner has a chance to help him understand what he should do by guiding him with the leash and collar.

Be positive. Instead of saying "NO", try giving your dog something positive that he can do for you, such as "Sit", or "Heel". This positive approach means you can praise generously for his good actions, instead of simply yelling at him. For example, a dog who jumps up can be told to sit, and helped if necessary, then praised for sitting.

Allow a dog to be a dog. Often, what owners consider problem behavior is simply normal dog behavior that they find unpleasant or annoying. For example, digging is a natural canine activity but distressing to a garden proud owner. Instead of scolding for what comes naturally, it might be kinder to set up an area in which you have buried small treats to make it more attractive than the rest of the yard, and praising your dog for digging in "his" garden.

Whenever natural behaviors conflict with what you might like, be creative and see if you can find an outlet for those interests and activities that is suitable for you both.

Be consistent. It is unfair to the dog to change your rules depending on what you're wearing, who's visiting or the kind of day you've had. If your dog is allowed on the furniture, he will be confused when you yell at him because Aunt Bess is visiting and she doesn't think dogs should sit in chairs! If he's allowed to jump up when you're wearing jeans and a sweatshirt, don't be surprised if he can't tell the difference between that and your best evening gown. Whatever your rules are, keep them consistent.

Have your dog earn what he wants. While everyone needs a few freebies now and then, your dog will not think you are a wonderful owner if you play with him, walk him, feed him and pet him whenever he demands it. In fact, this often creates problems since from the dog's point of view an owner who can be "trained" this well is not one who deserves much respect. Teach your dog to say "please" by sitting, laying down or following some other command before he gets what he wants.

Be clear. Owners often confuse dogs by changing the words or commands, repeating them over and over again without showing the dog what is meant, and worst of all, assuming that the dog understands.

When in doubt, gently show your dog physically exactly what you mean, giving the command at the same time so that he can associate the two. Use clear, matter of fact commands when addressing your dog, and be sure that your praising tone is excited, enthusiastic and upbeat.

Remember that while we use words to communicate, dogs are masters of reading body language. If your body language tells the dog one thing, but your voice tells the dog something else, chances are he will believe your body language. This is why people who bend towards their dog and shake a finger at them while scolding "No, no, no" often receive a playful bark - their body posture is much more like a dog inviting play than a dog who is annoyed or angry.

Exercise, exercise, exercise! The most common cause of problem behavior is boredom and a lack of sufficient exercise. While you work or go out, your dog has little or nothing to do, and his need to exercise will not go away. A familiar yard or house is boring, and few dogs exercise on their own without interaction with their owners. Take the time to play with your dog, jog with him, walk in the woods, swim or take long brisk walks each day. A tired dog is always a well behaved dog!

Provide mental stimulation. Dr. Roger Abrante's suggestions regarding using 1/3 of your dog's diet for treats to be earned during training, 1/3 to be given as usual in a food bowl, and 1/3 to be "hunted" (try a Buster Cube, an ingenious toy which the dog must persistently work with to receive a few kibble at a time. Even a border collie will be amused by this for hours! Buster Cubes are available from your local pet store or from DogWise.com.) This "home alone" 1/3-1/3-1/3 program helps your dog expend some energy and provides much needed stimulation.

Understand your dog's genetic heritage. Whether you own a Doberman or a Beagle, a Samoyed or a Westie, it is important to understand what your dog was bred to do. Owners often forget that the behavior that prompts a dog to run or stay close, hunt or guard, chase and kill or herd, work with people or work independently are all the result of generations of carefully selected traits. Research your breed's history, and talk to people who understand your breed's characteristics. You may find that Rover's tendencies, while annoying or amusing, are precisely what makes him what he is. You can then decide how best to work with your dog's instincts and where you need to concentrate training efforts.

Train your dog. Every dog should have basic manners, but dogs are not born knowing how to behave. Take the time to train your dog on a consistent basis using kind, positive methods. Find a class near you whose methods and philosophies you like. If faced with a behavior problem you can't solve, ask people you trust for a recommendation of an experienced trainer and get professional help fast. The sooner you begin working on a problem the sooner you will have it solved.

Thanks to Suzanne Clothier

http://www.suzanneclothier.com/

Mind your manners

Here in the UK we are lucky to have a vast array of parks and open spaces where dogs can be exercised off lead. In other countries, most notably the U.S ,the chance to exercise dogs off lead is the exception, not the rule. Owners have to keep their dogs on lead or search out specifically designed dog parks.

We should view the chance to exercise our dogs off lead as a privilege, and with this privilege there comes responsibility. A sunny day at your typical urban park sees pic-nics, couples walking, children playing, scooters and bikes hurtling all over the place. These are all great things for your dog to become accustomed to and it's nice to see happy dogs and their owners rubbing along contentedly with other park users. But are you doing everything you can to prevent you and your dog from committing doggy ASBOs

Too few dog owners take their responsibilities seriously. For many people walking the dog is the time to relax. Relaxing is fine but don't zone out, you should always keep a close eye on your dog and what it is doing. Failing to do so can at best lead your dog to be a nuisance to others and at worst could lead to your dog getting run over, involved in a fight, or scaring a child.

The first doggy ASBO many owners commit is failing to clean up after their dog. Some owners who pick up on the streets seem to think it's not worth doing so when there's grass on the ground. The only place where it's acceptable not to pick up straight away is your own garden.

In this day and age there really is no excuse for not scooping the poop. Poo bags can be bought almost anywhere for only a couple of pounds, some parks even supply them, and most councils ensure there are lots of bins to deposit your doggy droppings in. If you run out then ask a fellow dog owner, most will be happy to share! For those who scoop but then leave the full bags lying on the ground (why?!) then if the idea of carrying a full poo bag really horrifies you there are a variety of options available that will allow you to discreetly (and fragrantly) carry your full poo bags until you find a convenient bin.

http://www.dickybag.com

Next on the list of no-nos are the owners who think that just because their dog is allowed off lead their dog can run riot. We've all seen these dogs, running like lunatics, jumping on other dogs and people, chasing joggers with no owner in sight. Not everyone who walks in a park is going to be a dog lover and it is unfair (and in fact illegal) to make them feel uncomfortable or afraid.

If you are going to let your dog off the lead then ensure it has a good recall, teach it not to run up to strangers and leap on them, especially if it has muddy paws. Many owners are guilty of conspiring to form bad doggy manners by letting their puppies jump up to greet strangers and rush up to other dogs. If you want to have your pup off lead while training then use a long line so you can stop such things from happening. Not only will this be much nicer for other park users but it will also prevent your dog from learning bad habits that can take a lot of time and money to correct.

Although dogs are social animals it is preferable for your dog not to come bounding up to dogs it doesn't know, especially when they are on the lead. This can be disconcerting for both dog and owner. Remember, just because your dog is friendly doesn't mean every other dog is. You wouldn't like it if some stranger ran up to you in the street so why should a dog?



Don't walk your dog with the sole purpose of finding other dogs to exercise it for you. Use your time with your dog to play games, hide and seek, fetch, tug - whatever gets your dog enthused and enjoying your presence. Your bond with your dog will be strengthened by this time spent together. If your dog does start to play with another dog it meets on a walk then always check with the other dogs owner that they are happy with this and monitor the play session to make sure it doesn't become too rough.

Happy dog play should be fluid and relaxed, watch the dogs carefully. Are their mouths open, tongues flopping? Are their ears relaxed? Are they going down into play-bows and turning their heads and bodies sideways to the other dog as they play? Are they switching roles, taking turns to chase and wrestle? Are they taking brief breaks (even a couple of seconds) in between “attacks” on each other? All of these are signs that dogs are playing nicely. If one dog starts body slamming, scruff grabbing or if one spends more time being on the bottom of the pile then this is a sign to intervene and stop play. Just like humans some dogs are bullies and what may start as a game can soon escalate to aggression if one dog feels vulnerable to attack. While there are no hard and fast rules regarding the size of dogs other dogs can play with it is usually better to intervene if you have a large dog who is trying to play with a very small dog. Unless the dogs know one another well this can be a little too scary for a smaller dog.

If you're unsure about what dog play should be like then check out the following:

http://www.thebark.com/content/your-dog%E2%80%99s-rough-play-appropriate

http://www.petside.com/video/dog-play-body-language


Children and dogs can be great together, but many children are wary or downright afraid of dogs. While this is an issue in itself, it is only polite to prevent your dog from running up to children jumping on them, licking them, or knocking them over. If you have a child friendly dog and if an adult asks whether there child can say hello then by all means go ahead, but be careful to supervise the interaction. Make sure your dog stays relaxed and calm and the child doesn't pinch, pull or poke the dog - even accidentally

The great Lili Chin has designed a helpful poster for Jez Rose.
http://www.jezrose.co.uk/documents/woofs-and-growls-owners.pdf


Many breeds find joggers, cyclists and skaters great fun to chase. Don't let this happen! Your dog should never be allowed to get into the habit of chasing other park users. This is a sure fire way to end up being unpopular and you could even have a dog control order issued to you.

Pic-nics are the best part of summer for dogless people and the worst for dog owners. All too often a dog will bound over to a picnic and try to illicit food and attention. The least offensive dogs are those that sit and beg, the worst are those that grab sandwiches from hands and run off - even worse if the hands belong to children. Neither is acceptable behaviour. If you have a dog who can't be trusted around people eating then walk it early in the morning, late in the evening or keep it on the lead.

Perhaps the saddest dog owner ASBO is that of the distracted dog owner. With our busy lives more and more people are to be seen nattering away on the phone when they're out with their dog. Walking your dog isn't the time to be doing this. Even the best behaved dog can get into a scrape and injure itself or another dog or person so it's important to pay your dog attention. All too many lost dogs, unscooped poops, bites and other accidents occur because the dog owner was striding off talking on their mobile or gossiping with a friend, paying no attention to what their dog was doing. Dog walks shouldn't be for doing admin or catching up on gossip, they should be about quality time with your dog.

Use your walks as a time to practice your dog's recall, to work on its impulse control. There are so many bad mannered dogs in our parks who would be much better behaved if their owners interacted with them. If your dog chases bicycles then make sure you watch out for bikes on your walk and take appropriate action (getting your dog to heel/watch you/putting it on the lead) to prevent anything unpleasant occurring.

We are lucky to have these spaces where our dogs can be off lead with us, it is up to us to respect other park users and to show just how well behaved dogs can be. If we don't do this these spaces won't be around for long.

Dogs and the law - do you know the facts

There are a number of laws that cover the welfare and ownership, many of these unfortunately aren't known by owners. Among some of the most important are the following.


Identification

Your dog must where an ID tag with your name, address, and contact details.
Lots of people don't bother with ID tags. Perhaps it's the expense, or maybe they don't want their dogs to be easily identifieed. Either way by doing so you are putting your dog at risk. Not only is it illegal not to have an ID tag on your pet it also means that it can be impossible for you to be contacted should your dog be lost, injured or stolen. A sensible owner will have their dog microchipped (make sure your dog's chipped is registered on the database) AND make sure it is wearing an ID tag.

Lost or stray dogs

Each local authority must, by law, have a person appointed to look after stray dogs. If your dog is lost, make sure you contact your local authority (and any other neighbouring councils) as soon as possible. They are required to keep a register of found dogs but, sadly, the council is only obliged to look after the stray dog for 7 days – after a week the dog may be sold, given to a dog shelter for rehoming or destroyed. You may have to pay a fine of at least £25 plus costs for their food and care.

Barking

Pretty much every dog enjoys a good bark now and then, but if this becomes a nuisance for your neighbours you could face a fine and even prosecution under the Environmental Protection Act 1990 if complaints are made.

If you do need to leave your dog at home for a period of time, make sure they have plenty of toys, a comfy bed in a sheltered spot plus food and fresh water to keep them happy. Ideally, leave your mobile number with neighbours so they can contact you if your dog seems to be distressed or is making a noise, and check with them on a regular basis to make sure that your dog hasn’t been misbehaving whilst you’re out.


Keeping control

For most people, the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 is all about controlled breeds, such as the Pit Bull Terrier and the Fila Braziliero – although these breeds aren’t banned outright, you do need a Certificate of Exemption and comply with other very strict laws to keep one.

But did you know that the same Act also prohibits any dog, regardless of breed, from being “dangerously out of control in a public place”? The term “dangerously out of control” is defined in the Act as “that the dog will injure a person, whether or not it actually does so”. Dogs that are considered to be “dangerous” may be euthanised if the owner is successfully prosecuted under the Dangerous Dogs Act.

This has very serious implications for all dog owners: whilst you may know that your dog is just being playful and exuberant when they jump up, bark at other people or decide to chase a cyclist or runner, someone less familiar with dogs could find this behaviour hostile and frightening. If they believe that your dog was about to cause an injury, or if they did get a bite or scratch, the police could, in theory, attempt a prosecution under the Dangerous Dogs Act.

For this reason, it’s very important to always keep your dog under control when you’re in a public place: if they are prone to jumping up or barking loudly, consider keeping them on a lead and begin a training program to reduce these behaviours.

It is also worth remembering that many parks and open areas have a number of bylaws covering them. These additional laws can mean that you can be fined or prosecuted if your dog is off lead or deemed to be out of control. Always check what additional laws cover the areas you walk your dogs in.

Further information on the various Acts and laws relating to dogs and other animals can be found on the Associate Parliamentary Group for Animal Welfare (APGAW) website.

Would you let a mechanic fix your broken leg?

I've found some great new doggy blogs and here is a post from one of my favourites:


“I’ve Never Had a Dog Do That Before! My Neighbor Said the Dog Knows He Did Something Wrong.”
May 10, 2011 by specialpawstraining
There are some random (yet also connected in some ways) ideas about dogs and dog training that I wanted to try to talk about all together.

1) I have a car; and I have a driver’s license.

This does not mean that I know how to repair my car; or that I am qualified to be a race car or stunt driver! Yet for some reason just living with a dog seems to make everyone an expert. Why is that?

We take advice from our neighbors, out vets, our friends on dog behavior and what we should do if our dog barks at the doorbell. But would we listen to our dentist, vet, lawyer on advice about open heart surgery?

For some reason the commonality of living with a dog lends itself very readily to believing ourselves as holding some level of expertise on dog behavior, often based solely on past experience. I don’t know much in caring for my car beyond the regular oil change (which I even admit sadly I’m not very good at keeping up with). Just because I have a car does not make an expert in caring for one!

Likewise, just because I’ve had one car that dropped its transmission doesn’t mean all of my future cars will! Yet we tend to believe that because our first dog let the kids climb all over her, all of our future dogs will do the same without any work on our part.

Or if I have had three cars in my lifetime and have never had one drop its transmission, but my latest car is in the shop and the mechanic tells me it’s the transmission, I wouldn’t ask him “really, are you sure? I don’t see how that could be possible since I’ve never has a car do that to me before. ” Yet these are common responses we give when presented with the fact that our dogs guard tissues, or our dogs are chewing the furniture because they are not getting any walks, etc. Just because we have never seen something in our homes, doesn’t make them any less common or a reality.

2) When people see a monkey displaying certain visual signals and I explain that what they are seeing is a fear grin, or an open-mouth threat or an affiliative lip-smack, people are excited to learn what the signals mean. Yet when it comes to dogs, everyone has their own opinion about what a tail wag means or what signals that a dog is fearful.

For some reason, we don’t think of science surrounding dogs. If we all had pet monkeys (oh please no!!!!), would there be just as much hearsay surrounding interpreting their behavior?

In the fields of animal behavior, ethology and behavioral ecology, species of animals are studied to understand their behavior (which includes how they communicate). This includes dogs! There are studies out there that examine canine social behavior, communication, learning, etc. We DO know what a dog looks like when he’s fearful just like we know when a monkey is fearful!*

3) I often have clients equate some of the techniques used in training as “just like what you’d do with a child” or that their dog is “just like a child.” Upon first glance these comments seem harmless enough, but they actually carry a lot of weight and place a lot of expectations on dogs.

The notion that a “dog has to learn that a certain behavior is not okay, just like a child” is a huge fallacy. That is NOT to say that a dog shouldn’t have to learn the rules and boundaries of life with a human. Oh no, far from it! Much like we have to learn that it is not acceptable to pursue a dog seeking some alone time when he is overwhelmed because pursuing him is rude and because he is telling us he does not wish to be near us at this moment; our dogs have to learn that if you are a full grown St. Bernard it is not acceptable for you to jump up on great-grandma because that is rude!

It IS to say however that if a dog is resource guarding his kibble, it is not okay to want him not learn not to do it, “because you wouldn’t let a child get away with something like that.”** Children learn the difference between right and wrong. Children learn guilt and remorse.

Animals absolutely have emotions; animals can feel fear, joy, anxiety, etc. Animals CANNOT feel guilt and remorse; they do not develop morals. Your dog will never do something because “he knows it’s the right thing to do,” he will never “know he’s been bad.” It will never, ever, ever happen. Ever. This is a crucial thing to understand. Our relationship with our dogs cannot reach its full potential and neither we nor our dogs can truly ever thrive in that relationship if the relationship is hampered with these fallacies. (If you wondering: well then why does he look so guilty when I come home and find he’s peed in the kitchen, take a look at this summary of a recent study: http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/06/090611065839.htm)

Yes, our dogs are animals. They are dogs. This is a good thing! They are not creatures with human attributes clad in fur. This is something to celebrate! For someone who has devoted her entire adult life to the study of animal behavior, the idea that we get to share our lives with such a wonderful animal and that we can learn so much about animal behavior, cognition and learning theory from them is a wonderful gift! It’s a chance for us to all to let our inner Charles Darwin, Jane Goodall and Ivan Pavlov shine! We owe it to our dogs to treat them as the magnificent animals they are and to learn as much about their reality– the reality that is founded in science– as we can.

People are always remarking how happy Special Dark looks. I always tell them that I work very hard to make him happy… and it’s sheer joy to do that. I understand what he is saying to me, and he understands me and my expectations of him. Yes there are plenty of boundaries and rules; he is very well-behaved– and he is very happy. Knowing Special Dark is happy makes me happy, what more could I ask for? And it’s all thanks to the science behind our relationship.

*Wondering where you can learn more about these studies? Take a look at journals such as Animal Behaviour http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/journal/00033472 or Applied Animal Behaviour Science http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/journal/01681591. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has a great page on their site dedicated to listing canine studies: http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=148&Itemid=390

**With resource guarding, we want the dog to learn that we are not a threat around his kibble and that it means great things when we come around his kibble. Speak to your trainer about how to achieve this.