Here in the UK we are lucky to have a vast array of parks and open spaces where dogs can be exercised off lead. In other countries, most notably the U.S ,the chance to exercise dogs off lead is the exception, not the rule. Owners have to keep their dogs on lead or search out specifically designed dog parks.
We should view the chance to exercise our dogs off lead as a privilege, and with this privilege there comes responsibility. A sunny day at your typical urban park sees pic-nics, couples walking, children playing, scooters and bikes hurtling all over the place. These are all great things for your dog to become accustomed to and it's nice to see happy dogs and their owners rubbing along contentedly with other park users. But are you doing everything you can to prevent you and your dog from committing doggy ASBOs
Too few dog owners take their responsibilities seriously. For many people walking the dog is the time to relax. Relaxing is fine but don't zone out, you should always keep a close eye on your dog and what it is doing. Failing to do so can at best lead your dog to be a nuisance to others and at worst could lead to your dog getting run over, involved in a fight, or scaring a child.
The first doggy ASBO many owners commit is failing to clean up after their dog. Some owners who pick up on the streets seem to think it's not worth doing so when there's grass on the ground. The only place where it's acceptable not to pick up straight away is your own garden.
In this day and age there really is no excuse for not scooping the poop. Poo bags can be bought almost anywhere for only a couple of pounds, some parks even supply them, and most councils ensure there are lots of bins to deposit your doggy droppings in. If you run out then ask a fellow dog owner, most will be happy to share! For those who scoop but then leave the full bags lying on the ground (why?!) then if the idea of carrying a full poo bag really horrifies you there are a variety of options available that will allow you to discreetly (and fragrantly) carry your full poo bags until you find a convenient bin.
http://www.dickybag.com
Next on the list of no-nos are the owners who think that just because their dog is allowed off lead their dog can run riot. We've all seen these dogs, running like lunatics, jumping on other dogs and people, chasing joggers with no owner in sight. Not everyone who walks in a park is going to be a dog lover and it is unfair (and in fact illegal) to make them feel uncomfortable or afraid.
If you are going to let your dog off the lead then ensure it has a good recall, teach it not to run up to strangers and leap on them, especially if it has muddy paws. Many owners are guilty of conspiring to form bad doggy manners by letting their puppies jump up to greet strangers and rush up to other dogs. If you want to have your pup off lead while training then use a long line so you can stop such things from happening. Not only will this be much nicer for other park users but it will also prevent your dog from learning bad habits that can take a lot of time and money to correct.
Although dogs are social animals it is preferable for your dog not to come bounding up to dogs it doesn't know, especially when they are on the lead. This can be disconcerting for both dog and owner. Remember, just because your dog is friendly doesn't mean every other dog is. You wouldn't like it if some stranger ran up to you in the street so why should a dog?
Don't walk your dog with the sole purpose of finding other dogs to exercise it for you. Use your time with your dog to play games, hide and seek, fetch, tug - whatever gets your dog enthused and enjoying your presence. Your bond with your dog will be strengthened by this time spent together. If your dog does start to play with another dog it meets on a walk then always check with the other dogs owner that they are happy with this and monitor the play session to make sure it doesn't become too rough.
Happy dog play should be fluid and relaxed, watch the dogs carefully. Are their mouths open, tongues flopping? Are their ears relaxed? Are they going down into play-bows and turning their heads and bodies sideways to the other dog as they play? Are they switching roles, taking turns to chase and wrestle? Are they taking brief breaks (even a couple of seconds) in between “attacks” on each other? All of these are signs that dogs are playing nicely. If one dog starts body slamming, scruff grabbing or if one spends more time being on the bottom of the pile then this is a sign to intervene and stop play. Just like humans some dogs are bullies and what may start as a game can soon escalate to aggression if one dog feels vulnerable to attack. While there are no hard and fast rules regarding the size of dogs other dogs can play with it is usually better to intervene if you have a large dog who is trying to play with a very small dog. Unless the dogs know one another well this can be a little too scary for a smaller dog.
If you're unsure about what dog play should be like then check out the following:
http://www.thebark.com/content/your-dog%E2%80%99s-rough-play-appropriate
http://www.petside.com/video/dog-play-body-language
Children and dogs can be great together, but many children are wary or downright afraid of dogs. While this is an issue in itself, it is only polite to prevent your dog from running up to children jumping on them, licking them, or knocking them over. If you have a child friendly dog and if an adult asks whether there child can say hello then by all means go ahead, but be careful to supervise the interaction. Make sure your dog stays relaxed and calm and the child doesn't pinch, pull or poke the dog - even accidentally
The great Lili Chin has designed a helpful poster for Jez Rose.
http://www.jezrose.co.uk/documents/woofs-and-growls-owners.pdf
Many breeds find joggers, cyclists and skaters great fun to chase. Don't let this happen! Your dog should never be allowed to get into the habit of chasing other park users. This is a sure fire way to end up being unpopular and you could even have a dog control order issued to you.
Pic-nics are the best part of summer for dogless people and the worst for dog owners. All too often a dog will bound over to a picnic and try to illicit food and attention. The least offensive dogs are those that sit and beg, the worst are those that grab sandwiches from hands and run off - even worse if the hands belong to children. Neither is acceptable behaviour. If you have a dog who can't be trusted around people eating then walk it early in the morning, late in the evening or keep it on the lead.
Perhaps the saddest dog owner ASBO is that of the distracted dog owner. With our busy lives more and more people are to be seen nattering away on the phone when they're out with their dog. Walking your dog isn't the time to be doing this. Even the best behaved dog can get into a scrape and injure itself or another dog or person so it's important to pay your dog attention. All too many lost dogs, unscooped poops, bites and other accidents occur because the dog owner was striding off talking on their mobile or gossiping with a friend, paying no attention to what their dog was doing. Dog walks shouldn't be for doing admin or catching up on gossip, they should be about quality time with your dog.
Use your walks as a time to practice your dog's recall, to work on its impulse control. There are so many bad mannered dogs in our parks who would be much better behaved if their owners interacted with them. If your dog chases bicycles then make sure you watch out for bikes on your walk and take appropriate action (getting your dog to heel/watch you/putting it on the lead) to prevent anything unpleasant occurring.
We are lucky to have these spaces where our dogs can be off lead with us, it is up to us to respect other park users and to show just how well behaved dogs can be. If we don't do this these spaces won't be around for long.
Friday, 10 February 2012
Friday, 3 February 2012
Dogs and the law - do you know the facts
There are a number of laws that cover the welfare and ownership, many of these unfortunately aren't known by owners. Among some of the most important are the following.
Identification
Your dog must where an ID tag with your name, address, and contact details.
Lots of people don't bother with ID tags. Perhaps it's the expense, or maybe they don't want their dogs to be easily identifieed. Either way by doing so you are putting your dog at risk. Not only is it illegal not to have an ID tag on your pet it also means that it can be impossible for you to be contacted should your dog be lost, injured or stolen. A sensible owner will have their dog microchipped (make sure your dog's chipped is registered on the database) AND make sure it is wearing an ID tag.
Lost or stray dogs
Each local authority must, by law, have a person appointed to look after stray dogs. If your dog is lost, make sure you contact your local authority (and any other neighbouring councils) as soon as possible. They are required to keep a register of found dogs but, sadly, the council is only obliged to look after the stray dog for 7 days – after a week the dog may be sold, given to a dog shelter for rehoming or destroyed. You may have to pay a fine of at least £25 plus costs for their food and care.
Barking
Pretty much every dog enjoys a good bark now and then, but if this becomes a nuisance for your neighbours you could face a fine and even prosecution under the Environmental Protection Act 1990 if complaints are made.
If you do need to leave your dog at home for a period of time, make sure they have plenty of toys, a comfy bed in a sheltered spot plus food and fresh water to keep them happy. Ideally, leave your mobile number with neighbours so they can contact you if your dog seems to be distressed or is making a noise, and check with them on a regular basis to make sure that your dog hasn’t been misbehaving whilst you’re out.
Keeping control
For most people, the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 is all about controlled breeds, such as the Pit Bull Terrier and the Fila Braziliero – although these breeds aren’t banned outright, you do need a Certificate of Exemption and comply with other very strict laws to keep one.
But did you know that the same Act also prohibits any dog, regardless of breed, from being “dangerously out of control in a public place”? The term “dangerously out of control” is defined in the Act as “that the dog will injure a person, whether or not it actually does so”. Dogs that are considered to be “dangerous” may be euthanised if the owner is successfully prosecuted under the Dangerous Dogs Act.
This has very serious implications for all dog owners: whilst you may know that your dog is just being playful and exuberant when they jump up, bark at other people or decide to chase a cyclist or runner, someone less familiar with dogs could find this behaviour hostile and frightening. If they believe that your dog was about to cause an injury, or if they did get a bite or scratch, the police could, in theory, attempt a prosecution under the Dangerous Dogs Act.
For this reason, it’s very important to always keep your dog under control when you’re in a public place: if they are prone to jumping up or barking loudly, consider keeping them on a lead and begin a training program to reduce these behaviours.
It is also worth remembering that many parks and open areas have a number of bylaws covering them. These additional laws can mean that you can be fined or prosecuted if your dog is off lead or deemed to be out of control. Always check what additional laws cover the areas you walk your dogs in.
Further information on the various Acts and laws relating to dogs and other animals can be found on the Associate Parliamentary Group for Animal Welfare (APGAW) website.
Identification
Your dog must where an ID tag with your name, address, and contact details.
Lots of people don't bother with ID tags. Perhaps it's the expense, or maybe they don't want their dogs to be easily identifieed. Either way by doing so you are putting your dog at risk. Not only is it illegal not to have an ID tag on your pet it also means that it can be impossible for you to be contacted should your dog be lost, injured or stolen. A sensible owner will have their dog microchipped (make sure your dog's chipped is registered on the database) AND make sure it is wearing an ID tag.
Lost or stray dogs
Each local authority must, by law, have a person appointed to look after stray dogs. If your dog is lost, make sure you contact your local authority (and any other neighbouring councils) as soon as possible. They are required to keep a register of found dogs but, sadly, the council is only obliged to look after the stray dog for 7 days – after a week the dog may be sold, given to a dog shelter for rehoming or destroyed. You may have to pay a fine of at least £25 plus costs for their food and care.
Barking
Pretty much every dog enjoys a good bark now and then, but if this becomes a nuisance for your neighbours you could face a fine and even prosecution under the Environmental Protection Act 1990 if complaints are made.
If you do need to leave your dog at home for a period of time, make sure they have plenty of toys, a comfy bed in a sheltered spot plus food and fresh water to keep them happy. Ideally, leave your mobile number with neighbours so they can contact you if your dog seems to be distressed or is making a noise, and check with them on a regular basis to make sure that your dog hasn’t been misbehaving whilst you’re out.
Keeping control
For most people, the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 is all about controlled breeds, such as the Pit Bull Terrier and the Fila Braziliero – although these breeds aren’t banned outright, you do need a Certificate of Exemption and comply with other very strict laws to keep one.
But did you know that the same Act also prohibits any dog, regardless of breed, from being “dangerously out of control in a public place”? The term “dangerously out of control” is defined in the Act as “that the dog will injure a person, whether or not it actually does so”. Dogs that are considered to be “dangerous” may be euthanised if the owner is successfully prosecuted under the Dangerous Dogs Act.
This has very serious implications for all dog owners: whilst you may know that your dog is just being playful and exuberant when they jump up, bark at other people or decide to chase a cyclist or runner, someone less familiar with dogs could find this behaviour hostile and frightening. If they believe that your dog was about to cause an injury, or if they did get a bite or scratch, the police could, in theory, attempt a prosecution under the Dangerous Dogs Act.
For this reason, it’s very important to always keep your dog under control when you’re in a public place: if they are prone to jumping up or barking loudly, consider keeping them on a lead and begin a training program to reduce these behaviours.
It is also worth remembering that many parks and open areas have a number of bylaws covering them. These additional laws can mean that you can be fined or prosecuted if your dog is off lead or deemed to be out of control. Always check what additional laws cover the areas you walk your dogs in.
Further information on the various Acts and laws relating to dogs and other animals can be found on the Associate Parliamentary Group for Animal Welfare (APGAW) website.
Thursday, 2 February 2012
Would you let a mechanic fix your broken leg?
I've found some great new doggy blogs and here is a post from one of my favourites:
“I’ve Never Had a Dog Do That Before! My Neighbor Said the Dog Knows He Did Something Wrong.”
May 10, 2011 by specialpawstraining
There are some random (yet also connected in some ways) ideas about dogs and dog training that I wanted to try to talk about all together.
1) I have a car; and I have a driver’s license.
This does not mean that I know how to repair my car; or that I am qualified to be a race car or stunt driver! Yet for some reason just living with a dog seems to make everyone an expert. Why is that?
We take advice from our neighbors, out vets, our friends on dog behavior and what we should do if our dog barks at the doorbell. But would we listen to our dentist, vet, lawyer on advice about open heart surgery?
For some reason the commonality of living with a dog lends itself very readily to believing ourselves as holding some level of expertise on dog behavior, often based solely on past experience. I don’t know much in caring for my car beyond the regular oil change (which I even admit sadly I’m not very good at keeping up with). Just because I have a car does not make an expert in caring for one!
Likewise, just because I’ve had one car that dropped its transmission doesn’t mean all of my future cars will! Yet we tend to believe that because our first dog let the kids climb all over her, all of our future dogs will do the same without any work on our part.
Or if I have had three cars in my lifetime and have never had one drop its transmission, but my latest car is in the shop and the mechanic tells me it’s the transmission, I wouldn’t ask him “really, are you sure? I don’t see how that could be possible since I’ve never has a car do that to me before. ” Yet these are common responses we give when presented with the fact that our dogs guard tissues, or our dogs are chewing the furniture because they are not getting any walks, etc. Just because we have never seen something in our homes, doesn’t make them any less common or a reality.
2) When people see a monkey displaying certain visual signals and I explain that what they are seeing is a fear grin, or an open-mouth threat or an affiliative lip-smack, people are excited to learn what the signals mean. Yet when it comes to dogs, everyone has their own opinion about what a tail wag means or what signals that a dog is fearful.
For some reason, we don’t think of science surrounding dogs. If we all had pet monkeys (oh please no!!!!), would there be just as much hearsay surrounding interpreting their behavior?
In the fields of animal behavior, ethology and behavioral ecology, species of animals are studied to understand their behavior (which includes how they communicate). This includes dogs! There are studies out there that examine canine social behavior, communication, learning, etc. We DO know what a dog looks like when he’s fearful just like we know when a monkey is fearful!*
3) I often have clients equate some of the techniques used in training as “just like what you’d do with a child” or that their dog is “just like a child.” Upon first glance these comments seem harmless enough, but they actually carry a lot of weight and place a lot of expectations on dogs.
The notion that a “dog has to learn that a certain behavior is not okay, just like a child” is a huge fallacy. That is NOT to say that a dog shouldn’t have to learn the rules and boundaries of life with a human. Oh no, far from it! Much like we have to learn that it is not acceptable to pursue a dog seeking some alone time when he is overwhelmed because pursuing him is rude and because he is telling us he does not wish to be near us at this moment; our dogs have to learn that if you are a full grown St. Bernard it is not acceptable for you to jump up on great-grandma because that is rude!
It IS to say however that if a dog is resource guarding his kibble, it is not okay to want him not learn not to do it, “because you wouldn’t let a child get away with something like that.”** Children learn the difference between right and wrong. Children learn guilt and remorse.
Animals absolutely have emotions; animals can feel fear, joy, anxiety, etc. Animals CANNOT feel guilt and remorse; they do not develop morals. Your dog will never do something because “he knows it’s the right thing to do,” he will never “know he’s been bad.” It will never, ever, ever happen. Ever. This is a crucial thing to understand. Our relationship with our dogs cannot reach its full potential and neither we nor our dogs can truly ever thrive in that relationship if the relationship is hampered with these fallacies. (If you wondering: well then why does he look so guilty when I come home and find he’s peed in the kitchen, take a look at this summary of a recent study: http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/06/090611065839.htm)
Yes, our dogs are animals. They are dogs. This is a good thing! They are not creatures with human attributes clad in fur. This is something to celebrate! For someone who has devoted her entire adult life to the study of animal behavior, the idea that we get to share our lives with such a wonderful animal and that we can learn so much about animal behavior, cognition and learning theory from them is a wonderful gift! It’s a chance for us to all to let our inner Charles Darwin, Jane Goodall and Ivan Pavlov shine! We owe it to our dogs to treat them as the magnificent animals they are and to learn as much about their reality– the reality that is founded in science– as we can.
People are always remarking how happy Special Dark looks. I always tell them that I work very hard to make him happy… and it’s sheer joy to do that. I understand what he is saying to me, and he understands me and my expectations of him. Yes there are plenty of boundaries and rules; he is very well-behaved– and he is very happy. Knowing Special Dark is happy makes me happy, what more could I ask for? And it’s all thanks to the science behind our relationship.
*Wondering where you can learn more about these studies? Take a look at journals such as Animal Behaviour http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/journal/00033472 or Applied Animal Behaviour Science http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/journal/01681591. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has a great page on their site dedicated to listing canine studies: http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=148&Itemid=390
**With resource guarding, we want the dog to learn that we are not a threat around his kibble and that it means great things when we come around his kibble. Speak to your trainer about how to achieve this.
“I’ve Never Had a Dog Do That Before! My Neighbor Said the Dog Knows He Did Something Wrong.”
May 10, 2011 by specialpawstraining
There are some random (yet also connected in some ways) ideas about dogs and dog training that I wanted to try to talk about all together.
1) I have a car; and I have a driver’s license.
This does not mean that I know how to repair my car; or that I am qualified to be a race car or stunt driver! Yet for some reason just living with a dog seems to make everyone an expert. Why is that?
We take advice from our neighbors, out vets, our friends on dog behavior and what we should do if our dog barks at the doorbell. But would we listen to our dentist, vet, lawyer on advice about open heart surgery?
For some reason the commonality of living with a dog lends itself very readily to believing ourselves as holding some level of expertise on dog behavior, often based solely on past experience. I don’t know much in caring for my car beyond the regular oil change (which I even admit sadly I’m not very good at keeping up with). Just because I have a car does not make an expert in caring for one!
Likewise, just because I’ve had one car that dropped its transmission doesn’t mean all of my future cars will! Yet we tend to believe that because our first dog let the kids climb all over her, all of our future dogs will do the same without any work on our part.
Or if I have had three cars in my lifetime and have never had one drop its transmission, but my latest car is in the shop and the mechanic tells me it’s the transmission, I wouldn’t ask him “really, are you sure? I don’t see how that could be possible since I’ve never has a car do that to me before. ” Yet these are common responses we give when presented with the fact that our dogs guard tissues, or our dogs are chewing the furniture because they are not getting any walks, etc. Just because we have never seen something in our homes, doesn’t make them any less common or a reality.
2) When people see a monkey displaying certain visual signals and I explain that what they are seeing is a fear grin, or an open-mouth threat or an affiliative lip-smack, people are excited to learn what the signals mean. Yet when it comes to dogs, everyone has their own opinion about what a tail wag means or what signals that a dog is fearful.
For some reason, we don’t think of science surrounding dogs. If we all had pet monkeys (oh please no!!!!), would there be just as much hearsay surrounding interpreting their behavior?
In the fields of animal behavior, ethology and behavioral ecology, species of animals are studied to understand their behavior (which includes how they communicate). This includes dogs! There are studies out there that examine canine social behavior, communication, learning, etc. We DO know what a dog looks like when he’s fearful just like we know when a monkey is fearful!*
3) I often have clients equate some of the techniques used in training as “just like what you’d do with a child” or that their dog is “just like a child.” Upon first glance these comments seem harmless enough, but they actually carry a lot of weight and place a lot of expectations on dogs.
The notion that a “dog has to learn that a certain behavior is not okay, just like a child” is a huge fallacy. That is NOT to say that a dog shouldn’t have to learn the rules and boundaries of life with a human. Oh no, far from it! Much like we have to learn that it is not acceptable to pursue a dog seeking some alone time when he is overwhelmed because pursuing him is rude and because he is telling us he does not wish to be near us at this moment; our dogs have to learn that if you are a full grown St. Bernard it is not acceptable for you to jump up on great-grandma because that is rude!
It IS to say however that if a dog is resource guarding his kibble, it is not okay to want him not learn not to do it, “because you wouldn’t let a child get away with something like that.”** Children learn the difference between right and wrong. Children learn guilt and remorse.
Animals absolutely have emotions; animals can feel fear, joy, anxiety, etc. Animals CANNOT feel guilt and remorse; they do not develop morals. Your dog will never do something because “he knows it’s the right thing to do,” he will never “know he’s been bad.” It will never, ever, ever happen. Ever. This is a crucial thing to understand. Our relationship with our dogs cannot reach its full potential and neither we nor our dogs can truly ever thrive in that relationship if the relationship is hampered with these fallacies. (If you wondering: well then why does he look so guilty when I come home and find he’s peed in the kitchen, take a look at this summary of a recent study: http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/06/090611065839.htm)
Yes, our dogs are animals. They are dogs. This is a good thing! They are not creatures with human attributes clad in fur. This is something to celebrate! For someone who has devoted her entire adult life to the study of animal behavior, the idea that we get to share our lives with such a wonderful animal and that we can learn so much about animal behavior, cognition and learning theory from them is a wonderful gift! It’s a chance for us to all to let our inner Charles Darwin, Jane Goodall and Ivan Pavlov shine! We owe it to our dogs to treat them as the magnificent animals they are and to learn as much about their reality– the reality that is founded in science– as we can.
People are always remarking how happy Special Dark looks. I always tell them that I work very hard to make him happy… and it’s sheer joy to do that. I understand what he is saying to me, and he understands me and my expectations of him. Yes there are plenty of boundaries and rules; he is very well-behaved– and he is very happy. Knowing Special Dark is happy makes me happy, what more could I ask for? And it’s all thanks to the science behind our relationship.
*Wondering where you can learn more about these studies? Take a look at journals such as Animal Behaviour http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/journal/00033472 or Applied Animal Behaviour Science http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/journal/01681591. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has a great page on their site dedicated to listing canine studies: http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=148&Itemid=390
**With resource guarding, we want the dog to learn that we are not a threat around his kibble and that it means great things when we come around his kibble. Speak to your trainer about how to achieve this.
Thursday, 26 January 2012
How to deal with dogs that fear strangers...
This is a great article by Sophia Yin.
Why Fido Snaps at Friendly People
By Dr. Sophia Yin
The main problem here usually is that Fido didn't have enough positive experiences with a variety of unfamiliar people during his sensitive period for socialization and beyond. From three weeks to three months of age, puppies are primed to explore and form bonds. Such that if they meet and greet all types of people in many types of environments and good things happen to them simultaneously, they generalize to understand that people overall are friendly. Then if this socialization continues through their adolescence, the relaxed demeanor around people becomes part of their overall personality. Those dogs who didn't get the type and amount of experiences they needed given their individual genetic make-up and early experience can end up being fearful around some or all unfamiliar people.
How People Make the Problem Worse
Of course people inadvertently make the problem much worse. For one, they forget the Golden Rule - ask to pet, first. Instead, well-wishers approach too quickly, crowd too closely or loom over like a thunderstorm ready to dump its load. Under this pressure some dogs will freeze or shrink, pretending it's all a bad dream. Others take action - usually a reflex bark or low-level growl. A few successes here, and the message is loud and clear: when strangers approach, growl and bark to keep them away. Pretty soon, your sweet, slightly insecure dog has turned into a mass of defensive rumbling.
Some owners respond by reprimanding or punishing their dog. This can teach Fido that he'd better hide his fear from you but it doesn't make the internal fear disappear. As a result, your dog may no longer show signs that he wants people to back away, instead he holds it in until he can't take it anymore and then he explodes in a full-blown bite.
Why Do Friendly People Look Scary?
Many humans can't understand why their dogs would be afraid of them when they're obviously making friendly human gestures. Turn the tables around and the picture becomes clear. Say you're afraid of spiders and your friend shoves her pet tarantula in your face. If she simultaneously reassures you, "She's a friendly tarantula. See her amicable expression?" or "She can't cause harm, she's just an innocent baby," would you suddenly feel safe?
No, in fact the only way you could get used to the spider is if you greeted it at your own pace. That means it would have to be on a table or in some locations where you could control your distance from it. Then when you were ready you could gradually approach for a closer look and to even touch it. The same goes for dogs. All dogs are not outgoing or used to meeting many types of strangers, especially if they were already shy when you adopted them or have received minimal supervised socialization with many types of humans. If you walk into a dog's personal space or even stand and reach out to let him sniff you hand or to pet him he may feel threatened or be unsure of your intentions. To him, your hand might as well be a meat cleaver.
If however, you stand straight up or crouch down on one knee while looking slightly away, then he can approach and sniff you at his own rate. You can speed up the friendship if you inconspicuously drop tasty treats close to you. If he's taking these without any hesitation, you can hold treats in your hand while averting your gaze so that shy Fido can choose to take them.
Often people manage to get through the initial greeting with Fido okay but then they make a quick or inappropriate move that scares him into snapping or running away. This is still similar to the situation with the giant spider. Even when you're finally comfortable enough to examine and touch the tarantula, if it suddenly moves its mouthparts or waves one of its legs in the air you might jump away out of fright. To you these movements may conjure images of the tarantula leaping at you and taking a bite whereas to the tarantula the movements may just be a subconscious change in position or even a signal that it's your friend. So the trick to ensuring that you don't frighten Fido even after the initial greeting is to gradually get him used to you in different positions. Avoid learning over him or reaching over his head or grabbing and hugging him so he feels confined. Instead move slowly and smoothly in order to give him a chance to back away.
Read the Dog's Signals
Probably the biggest issue with these dogs who are uncomfortable with some human greetings is that their humans as well as the unfamiliar greeters fail to recognize the neon sign flashing in the dog's body postures and movements. It says, "Help! I'm scared. Go Away." Fido may be tense with eyes darting back and forth or his gaze looking away while he's cowering. Or he may be yawning, licking his lips or panting when he shouldn't be hot. Sometimes Fido starts moving in slow motion like he's sneaking around, or his ears suddenly going out to the sides or back while his brow is furrowed in a worried look. And often his tail is down low, even between his legs. These are all signs of anxiety or fear.
What to Do if You See Signs of Fear
If you see these signs in your dog as someone reaches out to pet him, quickly move away so he's out of range of the approaching petter. Like the person who's about to pick up litter but stops because the litter starts to blow away, the signal you send by moving away is to stop. At the same time you can explain "He's afraid of new people that approach him quickly." Simultaneously get Fido's attention on you and reward him for something good such as sitting or looking at you or performing tricks. The goal is to change his emotional state from scared to happy, so that he can eventually learn to associate unfamiliar people with good things. Consequently his fear can go away. Strangers can also toss treats while looking away, but unless you're absolutely sure that you can tell when Fido is permanently comfortable with them, I'd avoid letting them pet him unless you have a professional coach you through the procedure.
For People Greeting Unfamiliar Dogs
It's important that you watch body language too. The dog may take treats from you but that doesn't mean he's ready to be touched. Watch the response to everything you do because sometimes a split second freeze or lift of the lip is the neon sign that says "That's too scary for me. Now I'm going to bite." Instead, just be happy to give treats and admire the dog without touching and know that you've given him a good experience.
What Body Language Indicates the Dog is Safe?
The body language you'd like to see when greeting a dog is one that says this whole business is ho-hum. The dog should remain relaxed and his gaze should be steady and soft. His tail should either wag or hang loosely down.
The Solution
If humans would let dogs approach them at their own pace and would even make treats magically appear on the ground around them without pressuring the dog to allowing being petted, they would experience many good dog greetings and help Fido have positive experiences around unfamiliar people, too.
Why Fido Snaps at Friendly People
By Dr. Sophia Yin
The main problem here usually is that Fido didn't have enough positive experiences with a variety of unfamiliar people during his sensitive period for socialization and beyond. From three weeks to three months of age, puppies are primed to explore and form bonds. Such that if they meet and greet all types of people in many types of environments and good things happen to them simultaneously, they generalize to understand that people overall are friendly. Then if this socialization continues through their adolescence, the relaxed demeanor around people becomes part of their overall personality. Those dogs who didn't get the type and amount of experiences they needed given their individual genetic make-up and early experience can end up being fearful around some or all unfamiliar people.
How People Make the Problem Worse
Of course people inadvertently make the problem much worse. For one, they forget the Golden Rule - ask to pet, first. Instead, well-wishers approach too quickly, crowd too closely or loom over like a thunderstorm ready to dump its load. Under this pressure some dogs will freeze or shrink, pretending it's all a bad dream. Others take action - usually a reflex bark or low-level growl. A few successes here, and the message is loud and clear: when strangers approach, growl and bark to keep them away. Pretty soon, your sweet, slightly insecure dog has turned into a mass of defensive rumbling.
Some owners respond by reprimanding or punishing their dog. This can teach Fido that he'd better hide his fear from you but it doesn't make the internal fear disappear. As a result, your dog may no longer show signs that he wants people to back away, instead he holds it in until he can't take it anymore and then he explodes in a full-blown bite.
Why Do Friendly People Look Scary?
Many humans can't understand why their dogs would be afraid of them when they're obviously making friendly human gestures. Turn the tables around and the picture becomes clear. Say you're afraid of spiders and your friend shoves her pet tarantula in your face. If she simultaneously reassures you, "She's a friendly tarantula. See her amicable expression?" or "She can't cause harm, she's just an innocent baby," would you suddenly feel safe?
No, in fact the only way you could get used to the spider is if you greeted it at your own pace. That means it would have to be on a table or in some locations where you could control your distance from it. Then when you were ready you could gradually approach for a closer look and to even touch it. The same goes for dogs. All dogs are not outgoing or used to meeting many types of strangers, especially if they were already shy when you adopted them or have received minimal supervised socialization with many types of humans. If you walk into a dog's personal space or even stand and reach out to let him sniff you hand or to pet him he may feel threatened or be unsure of your intentions. To him, your hand might as well be a meat cleaver.
If however, you stand straight up or crouch down on one knee while looking slightly away, then he can approach and sniff you at his own rate. You can speed up the friendship if you inconspicuously drop tasty treats close to you. If he's taking these without any hesitation, you can hold treats in your hand while averting your gaze so that shy Fido can choose to take them.
Often people manage to get through the initial greeting with Fido okay but then they make a quick or inappropriate move that scares him into snapping or running away. This is still similar to the situation with the giant spider. Even when you're finally comfortable enough to examine and touch the tarantula, if it suddenly moves its mouthparts or waves one of its legs in the air you might jump away out of fright. To you these movements may conjure images of the tarantula leaping at you and taking a bite whereas to the tarantula the movements may just be a subconscious change in position or even a signal that it's your friend. So the trick to ensuring that you don't frighten Fido even after the initial greeting is to gradually get him used to you in different positions. Avoid learning over him or reaching over his head or grabbing and hugging him so he feels confined. Instead move slowly and smoothly in order to give him a chance to back away.
Read the Dog's Signals
Probably the biggest issue with these dogs who are uncomfortable with some human greetings is that their humans as well as the unfamiliar greeters fail to recognize the neon sign flashing in the dog's body postures and movements. It says, "Help! I'm scared. Go Away." Fido may be tense with eyes darting back and forth or his gaze looking away while he's cowering. Or he may be yawning, licking his lips or panting when he shouldn't be hot. Sometimes Fido starts moving in slow motion like he's sneaking around, or his ears suddenly going out to the sides or back while his brow is furrowed in a worried look. And often his tail is down low, even between his legs. These are all signs of anxiety or fear.
What to Do if You See Signs of Fear
If you see these signs in your dog as someone reaches out to pet him, quickly move away so he's out of range of the approaching petter. Like the person who's about to pick up litter but stops because the litter starts to blow away, the signal you send by moving away is to stop. At the same time you can explain "He's afraid of new people that approach him quickly." Simultaneously get Fido's attention on you and reward him for something good such as sitting or looking at you or performing tricks. The goal is to change his emotional state from scared to happy, so that he can eventually learn to associate unfamiliar people with good things. Consequently his fear can go away. Strangers can also toss treats while looking away, but unless you're absolutely sure that you can tell when Fido is permanently comfortable with them, I'd avoid letting them pet him unless you have a professional coach you through the procedure.
For People Greeting Unfamiliar Dogs
It's important that you watch body language too. The dog may take treats from you but that doesn't mean he's ready to be touched. Watch the response to everything you do because sometimes a split second freeze or lift of the lip is the neon sign that says "That's too scary for me. Now I'm going to bite." Instead, just be happy to give treats and admire the dog without touching and know that you've given him a good experience.
What Body Language Indicates the Dog is Safe?
The body language you'd like to see when greeting a dog is one that says this whole business is ho-hum. The dog should remain relaxed and his gaze should be steady and soft. His tail should either wag or hang loosely down.
The Solution
If humans would let dogs approach them at their own pace and would even make treats magically appear on the ground around them without pressuring the dog to allowing being petted, they would experience many good dog greetings and help Fido have positive experiences around unfamiliar people, too.
Friday, 20 January 2012
Is your dog travelling safely?
Time and again I see dogs travelling unsecured in cars. Hatchback owners are the worst culprits but plenty of people driving estate cars and 4x4s are guilty too.
I see them every day, sprawling on the back seat, sitting on the arm rest, happily perched on the passenger seat - even on the dash board or the parcel shelf. What do all of these pups have in common - none are travelling safely and all could get injured or injure others.
You wouldn't let a child travel in this fashion so the question is, why let your dog. By leaving your dog loose you are putting yourself and other road users in danger. An unsecured dog could try and move from the rear seats to sit with you in the front or could start barking and lunging at dogs it sees on the other side of the windows. This is distracting at best and at worst could cause you to collide with another car or even another person.
Added to this is the force an unsecured dog has when involved in a car crash. Remember the seatbelt campaign from a few years ago, the one where the child didn't have a seatbelt on and slammed into the front of the seat pushing the driver into the steering column? Well it doesn't have to be a person to have this effect. If you are driving at speed and have an unsecured dog in your rear seats the force of any braking or impact will throw the dog forward. Not only could the dog get injured, or even die if thrown from the car, but you and any other people travelling in the car could suffer as well. And what about if your dog managed to get loose, say on a busy road or even a motorway. Yet another disaster waiting to happen.
Nowadays there exist a wide variety of products to ensure your dog stays safe while on the road. You can buy custom built car travel crates made to measure, sure to fit even the most oddly shaped car, alternatively and slightly cheaper are the ready to buy standard travel crates, there are also a plethora of soft travel crates that can be secured to seat belt points, then there are doggy seat belts. Most require your dog to wear a harness, if they fixed to a standard collar then sharp breaking could seriously damage your dog's neck. The harness is then attached either to the seatbelt point or the seatbelt itself.
My preferred methods of transporting our pups are a partitioned travel crate in the rear of the car. A travel crate differs from your dog's standard crate in that it is more solid and features front and back doors so that if the rear of your car is damaged you can drop the back seats and open the crate from that end. I also use a great system called the Kurgo auto bungee - this looks quite complicated but features a sturdy harness, a tight line that fixes between the coat hooks above the rear passenger doors and a carabiner and belt system that anchors your dog while allowing it limited sideways movement along the rear seat. It comes in a variety of sizes and can be used on any size dog from toy breeds to giants.
Another thought to consider is whether your dog walker transports your dog in a safe fashion. All too many pet professionals are keen to fit as many dogs into one space as possible. This means cars and vans crammed with dogs all unsecured and forced to get up close and personal with each other. Not only is this dangerous for all the reasons mentioned but it can lead to fights among dogs and make the process of being transported and taken out for a walk a stressful and unpleasant experience. All responsible pet professionals will be happy to show you how they transport your dog and reassure you that they do so safely.
Wednesday, 11 January 2012
The cuteness curse - ask before you say hello
This is a great piece by Barker Behaviour in the U.S encouraging us to think before approaching dogs, no matter how cute they are, something especially true of small dogs.
Look at this face. You want to pet him, don’t you? Have you ever wondered if he wanted you to pet him? Just because a dog is cute and looks good to you does not mean he or she loves to be touched; especially by strangers.
The Cuteness Curse
BY
Look at this face. You want to pet him, don’t you? Have you ever wondered if he wanted you to pet him? Just because a dog is cute and looks good to you does not mean he or she loves to be touched; especially by strangers.I am not suggesting that you get on hands and knees, wiggle your bum and ask every dog you meet if they want to be touched nor am I saying that we should all roll onto our backs and let dogs pet us. We do, however, need to remember that OUR desire to touch an animal may not be received with enthusiasm. Some tips to remember the next time you MUST say hello to a ridiculously cute dog:
Ask. If you are walking into someone’s home or meet a dog on the street, ask if you may say hello to their dog. I can not tell you how many times I am out with Finn or a client’s dog and folks just rush us, without permission. Just ask. It is polite and prevents a bite from a dog who downright does not like people.
Listen. If the dog’s guardian tells you his or her dog is shy, do not reinforce those fears by mimicking Godzilla as you chase their dog into a corner.
Watch. If the super cute dog walks away from you, lowers their head or hides behind their owner; those behaviors clearly indicate varying levels of disinterest in you. If you give in to your desires and force your affection on the dog to feed your own satisfaction, you could make the fears worse or get bitten. Remember, flight or fight? If flight does not work, your actions might be met with fight. Not good for you or the dog.
Help. If you sit in a chair and avoid eye contact, it can help the dog feel less threatened. Crouching helps too but if the dog has ANY history of biting, you put yourself in a dangerous position by getting on the floor. Some dogs respond well when guardians give amazing treats for confident behavior in the presence of strange people, treats go away when the strange person goes away. Some dogs do well if the stranger drops (no tossing overhand) amazing treats on the floor for the dog. Again, remember coming at or over the dog can be scary.
Remember, the way a dog looks is not an indicator of their personality. If you LOVE dogs, remember this the next time you meet a new one and you may help the adorable little (or big) dog become more confident around new people.
Patricia McConnell weighs in on the dominance issue
This article was published in Bark magazine in September 2011. Yesterday I posted a piece written by Roger Abrantes on dominance and I thought it was worth adding another dog behaviour guru's thoughts on the whole dominance palaver. Enjoy!
Published on The Bark (http://thebark.com)
Down with Dominance
by Patricia McConnell, PhD
Originally appearing in Issue #66, Sep/Oct 2011
Both Ends of the Leash
Here are some “rules” for you dog lovers out there (that is, if you’re given to following just
anyone’s advice, whether or not they’re qualified to give it):
• Don’t pet your dog unless he works for it first.
• Don’t let your dog move his head so that it is higher than your own.
• Don’t feed your dog until after you’ve eaten.
• Don’t step around your dog if she’s in your path; make her get up and move, even if she’s
sound asleep.
• Don’t let your dog sleep with you or cuddle with you on the couch.
• Don’t clean up after your dog while she’s watching you.
But, never fear. Here’s what you can do:
• Spit in your dog’s food.
• Wipe your baby’s dirty diapers on the wall.
Why, you might ask? Because each action is said to either cause your dog to think he’s
dominant over you, or — in the case of the spitting and the wiping — tells your dog that you
(and your baby) are dominant over her. Seriously. There are people out there telling us that
these tips are critical to our own happiness as well as that of our dogs.
Oh my. Are we really still having this conversation? Are we really still talking about whether
or not we need to “get dominance” over our dogs? Ten years ago, I wrote a column for Bark
titled “Alpha Schmalpha,” in which I explained that dominance is one of the most misused
and misunderstood words in the English language, at least in relation to dog training. As I
and many other trainers and behaviorists repeat endlessly in books, blogs and seminars,
dominance is simply a description of a relationship between two individuals who want the
same thing.
One animal is said to be “dominant” over the other if he or she always has primary access
to the pork chop that falls on the floor, or the favorite toy, or the cozy lap of a dozing
guardian. Thus, it’s about the resolution of situations in which there might be competition
for a resource. It is not about coming when called, or sitting when told to sit, or accepting
unfamiliar dogs into the yard.
We’re not even sure how the concept relates to interactions between dogs, much less to
interactions between two entirely different species like people and dogs. At present,
thoughtful ethologists and behaviorists are re-evaluating the concepts of “dominance” and
“social status” as they relate to the domestic dog. Although there are questions and
quibbles about some of the finer points, experts almost universally agree that the concept
of “getting dominance” over our dogs is, at best, not useful, and more often is harmful to our
relationships with our best friends.
Yet, the idea that we must “dominate” our dogs lives on, zombie-like, in spite of years of
research and experience that demonstrates “being dominant” over our dogs does not
improve obedience. In fact, we know that using positive reinforcement results in the best
behavior, the fewest behavioral problems and the richest relationships. Given that, the
question we need to ask ourselves is this: why is the concept of achieving dominance over
our dogs so seductive? Why is it so hard for people to give up?
This is most likely not a question with one answer. Given that humans are complex
animals, I suspect there are many answers. And, of course, all we can do is speculate.
Perhaps thinking about what might motivate us to hang onto this age-old concept can help
us finally give it a respectful burial.
Surely one reason that so many people are enamored of the concept is that social status is
highly relevant to our species. No matter how egalitarian we are, the fact is that in
restaurants, some people get better tables than others, and most of us can’t walk into the
governor’s office just to have a chat. We address physicians as “Dr. Johnson” but we call
nurses “Anita” or “James”; we ask the judge for “permission to approach the bench”; and if
we are lucky enough to be given an audience at Buckingham Palace, we still, still, bow or
curtsy to the queen.
However, we don’t seem to make the mistake within our own species that we make with
our dogs, confounding social status or control with teaching or conveying information. We
may take away our children’s cell phones to make them spend more time studying algebra,
but we don’t think that our ability to do so actually teaches them algebra. And yet, we tend
to do that with our dogs all the time. Dogs are supposed to come when called, refrain from
jumping up on company and walk at perfect heel just because we tell them to. Each of
those actions requires learning; they are not natural to dogs and have to be taught, much
the same as we had to be taught how to solve an equation like 2x – 3 = 5.
Perhaps another reason we are so susceptible to the fallacy of “getting dominance” over
our dogs is that it makes dog training seem simple. One-step shopping — just get your dog
to accept you as “alpha,” and voilà! Your dog will stop jumping up on visitors and will
quietly walk through the neighborhood at your side, ignoring all the interesting stuff, like
squirrels and information left by other dogs as they passed by.
No training required, either for your dog or, as importantly, for you. No need to learn timing
and reinforcement schedules and how to know when your dog can learn and when she is
too tired or distracted to understand what you are trying to teach her. In a world of instant
rice and instant messaging and instant information on demand, no wonder a simple, blackand-white concept is attractive.
No matter that dominance has no relation to these issues, or that the way it is presented
often equates more to bullying than to social status. Sure, it’s appealing to think that one
overriding concept will take care of a host of behavioral issues. And hey, how hard could it
be to talk your dog into believing that you are the alpha? You’re the one who can open the
door, you’re the one who brings home the dog food and you’re the one with the opposable
thumbs and the big brain. Of course, opening doors has nothing to do with sitting when the
doorbell rings, but surely being “dominant” will mean that when you say “Sit!” she does
What else would she do?
Well, actually, there are many reasonable responses that a dog can make to a noise
coming out of a person’s mouth, such as: have no idea what sit means because she hasn’t
been taught to understand what she was supposed to do when she heard the word; or be
unable, without training and practice, to control her emotions and sit down when she is
overwhelmed with excitement.
Finally, and perhaps most compellingly, the concept of dominance feeds into our desire for
control. Let’s face it: we all want control, at least over some things. Influencing the behavior
of others is crucial to members of a social species, and is most likely one of the driving
forces behind language, facial expressions of emotion and the importance that movie
directors pay to the musical score. Heaven knows our desire for control is satisfied rarely
enough: world leaders pay no attention to our solutions to one crisis after another —
granted, we’ve only been talking to our friends about them, but then that’s my point. We are
awash in events that we read about, hear about and post blogs about but have little or no
control over. How satisfying then to say “Sit” and have our dogs hear us, do it and look up
with a grin.
The idea that all we need is respect (cue Aretha here) and our dog will behave perfectly is
understandably seductive. Too bad it’s incorrect. Far worse, it can lead, at best, to a dog
who performs because he is intimidated, and at worst, to a dog who is abused. The fact is,
dogs will respect us only if we are consistent, clear and fair. They will love and trust us only
if we are loving and patient and are able to communicate to them in ways that they
understand. That does not mean we need to “spoil” them and allow them to behave like
rude and demanding house guests. However, we need to teach them how to behave in the
society of another species, rather than expecting them to do what you say just because
they “want to please us.” That foolish fantasy is as realistic as a Disney cartoon.
Ah, we all love a good fantasy, don’t we? However, separating fantasy from reality is an
important part of being a grown-up. Let’s make it an important part of being a good
guardian for our dogs.
I’d write more, but I have to go spit in my dog’s dinner.
Published on The Bark (http://thebark.com)
Down with Dominance
by Patricia McConnell, PhD
Originally appearing in Issue #66, Sep/Oct 2011
Both Ends of the Leash
Here are some “rules” for you dog lovers out there (that is, if you’re given to following just
anyone’s advice, whether or not they’re qualified to give it):
• Don’t pet your dog unless he works for it first.
• Don’t let your dog move his head so that it is higher than your own.
• Don’t feed your dog until after you’ve eaten.
• Don’t step around your dog if she’s in your path; make her get up and move, even if she’s
sound asleep.
• Don’t let your dog sleep with you or cuddle with you on the couch.
• Don’t clean up after your dog while she’s watching you.
But, never fear. Here’s what you can do:
• Spit in your dog’s food.
• Wipe your baby’s dirty diapers on the wall.
Why, you might ask? Because each action is said to either cause your dog to think he’s
dominant over you, or — in the case of the spitting and the wiping — tells your dog that you
(and your baby) are dominant over her. Seriously. There are people out there telling us that
these tips are critical to our own happiness as well as that of our dogs.
Oh my. Are we really still having this conversation? Are we really still talking about whether
or not we need to “get dominance” over our dogs? Ten years ago, I wrote a column for Bark
titled “Alpha Schmalpha,” in which I explained that dominance is one of the most misused
and misunderstood words in the English language, at least in relation to dog training. As I
and many other trainers and behaviorists repeat endlessly in books, blogs and seminars,
dominance is simply a description of a relationship between two individuals who want the
same thing.
One animal is said to be “dominant” over the other if he or she always has primary access
to the pork chop that falls on the floor, or the favorite toy, or the cozy lap of a dozing
guardian. Thus, it’s about the resolution of situations in which there might be competition
for a resource. It is not about coming when called, or sitting when told to sit, or accepting
unfamiliar dogs into the yard.
We’re not even sure how the concept relates to interactions between dogs, much less to
interactions between two entirely different species like people and dogs. At present,
thoughtful ethologists and behaviorists are re-evaluating the concepts of “dominance” and
“social status” as they relate to the domestic dog. Although there are questions and
quibbles about some of the finer points, experts almost universally agree that the concept
of “getting dominance” over our dogs is, at best, not useful, and more often is harmful to our
relationships with our best friends.
Yet, the idea that we must “dominate” our dogs lives on, zombie-like, in spite of years of
research and experience that demonstrates “being dominant” over our dogs does not
improve obedience. In fact, we know that using positive reinforcement results in the best
behavior, the fewest behavioral problems and the richest relationships. Given that, the
question we need to ask ourselves is this: why is the concept of achieving dominance over
our dogs so seductive? Why is it so hard for people to give up?
This is most likely not a question with one answer. Given that humans are complex
animals, I suspect there are many answers. And, of course, all we can do is speculate.
Perhaps thinking about what might motivate us to hang onto this age-old concept can help
us finally give it a respectful burial.
Surely one reason that so many people are enamored of the concept is that social status is
highly relevant to our species. No matter how egalitarian we are, the fact is that in
restaurants, some people get better tables than others, and most of us can’t walk into the
governor’s office just to have a chat. We address physicians as “Dr. Johnson” but we call
nurses “Anita” or “James”; we ask the judge for “permission to approach the bench”; and if
we are lucky enough to be given an audience at Buckingham Palace, we still, still, bow or
curtsy to the queen.
However, we don’t seem to make the mistake within our own species that we make with
our dogs, confounding social status or control with teaching or conveying information. We
may take away our children’s cell phones to make them spend more time studying algebra,
but we don’t think that our ability to do so actually teaches them algebra. And yet, we tend
to do that with our dogs all the time. Dogs are supposed to come when called, refrain from
jumping up on company and walk at perfect heel just because we tell them to. Each of
those actions requires learning; they are not natural to dogs and have to be taught, much
the same as we had to be taught how to solve an equation like 2x – 3 = 5.
Perhaps another reason we are so susceptible to the fallacy of “getting dominance” over
our dogs is that it makes dog training seem simple. One-step shopping — just get your dog
to accept you as “alpha,” and voilà! Your dog will stop jumping up on visitors and will
quietly walk through the neighborhood at your side, ignoring all the interesting stuff, like
squirrels and information left by other dogs as they passed by.
No training required, either for your dog or, as importantly, for you. No need to learn timing
and reinforcement schedules and how to know when your dog can learn and when she is
too tired or distracted to understand what you are trying to teach her. In a world of instant
rice and instant messaging and instant information on demand, no wonder a simple, blackand-white concept is attractive.
No matter that dominance has no relation to these issues, or that the way it is presented
often equates more to bullying than to social status. Sure, it’s appealing to think that one
overriding concept will take care of a host of behavioral issues. And hey, how hard could it
be to talk your dog into believing that you are the alpha? You’re the one who can open the
door, you’re the one who brings home the dog food and you’re the one with the opposable
thumbs and the big brain. Of course, opening doors has nothing to do with sitting when the
doorbell rings, but surely being “dominant” will mean that when you say “Sit!” she does
What else would she do?
Well, actually, there are many reasonable responses that a dog can make to a noise
coming out of a person’s mouth, such as: have no idea what sit means because she hasn’t
been taught to understand what she was supposed to do when she heard the word; or be
unable, without training and practice, to control her emotions and sit down when she is
overwhelmed with excitement.
Finally, and perhaps most compellingly, the concept of dominance feeds into our desire for
control. Let’s face it: we all want control, at least over some things. Influencing the behavior
of others is crucial to members of a social species, and is most likely one of the driving
forces behind language, facial expressions of emotion and the importance that movie
directors pay to the musical score. Heaven knows our desire for control is satisfied rarely
enough: world leaders pay no attention to our solutions to one crisis after another —
granted, we’ve only been talking to our friends about them, but then that’s my point. We are
awash in events that we read about, hear about and post blogs about but have little or no
control over. How satisfying then to say “Sit” and have our dogs hear us, do it and look up
with a grin.
The idea that all we need is respect (cue Aretha here) and our dog will behave perfectly is
understandably seductive. Too bad it’s incorrect. Far worse, it can lead, at best, to a dog
who performs because he is intimidated, and at worst, to a dog who is abused. The fact is,
dogs will respect us only if we are consistent, clear and fair. They will love and trust us only
if we are loving and patient and are able to communicate to them in ways that they
understand. That does not mean we need to “spoil” them and allow them to behave like
rude and demanding house guests. However, we need to teach them how to behave in the
society of another species, rather than expecting them to do what you say just because
they “want to please us.” That foolish fantasy is as realistic as a Disney cartoon.
Ah, we all love a good fantasy, don’t we? However, separating fantasy from reality is an
important part of being a grown-up. Let’s make it an important part of being a good
guardian for our dogs.
I’d write more, but I have to go spit in my dog’s dinner.
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