Dealing with nervous dogs

THE SHY DOG PRIMER
BY Julia V. McDonough
www.FortunateK9.com
 When it comes to dogs, the main concern in the eyes of the general public is regarding
aggression. A quick look at the dog bite statistics in the U.S. will tell you why. While the most
horrific headline-grabbing incidents tend to happen because a dog pursues and attacks a much
weaker human who may be viewed as prey (think of the latest mauling of a child by a large dog),
a large number of dog bites may be attributed to a dog in defense drive, who is biting for a totally
different reason.

What is defense drive?
 In its best light, defense drive is the protective instinct that causes a dog to put himself in
harm's way in order to protect his territory or perhaps other pack members. In a pet dog, we may
see it when normally friendly Fido acts like Cujo behind his garden fence or when he valiantly
defends his owner's car from pedestrians as the car waits at a stop light. In its more commonly
reported version, defense drive is seen in the dog who curls his lip when a hand is extended to
him. And in its extreme version, defense drive may be seen in the frightening self-preservation
response of a dog who acts like a cornered rat when approached by a person.

 Some dog experts say that dogs are "fight or flight" animals and that a dog in defense is a
dog who is strictly afraid. Hence the term "fear aggression" which one hears about a lot. (I
personally don't use the term, as "aggression" by definition is forward-moving and usually
confident; whereas "fear" produces the backwards moving, terrified reaction I describe below).
However, anyone who has watched a police K9 or a well-trained protection sport dog in action is
seeing a balance of prey drive and defense drive. A well-adjusted dog in defense drive may be
serious, but it is an anthropomorphic stretch to characterize his behavior as "frightened".  Also,
there are other basic options besides "fight or flight", and a normal dog will often explore those
in a new situation. Most normal dogs will choose the option of contact with the new person,
animal, or object, and make their next decision based on the outcome of the contact. An insecure
dog will usually choose to remove himself from the situation. And a very shy dog will
immediately choose to flee. If flight is prevented, the shy dog will respond as if cornered, and a
frightening display will follow. In a truly shy dog, there may be a submissive display with the
dog rolling itself, crying and urinating. In its most extreme manifestation, shyness can take on
the appearance of what some would term aggression: the hackles on the dog's shoulders all the way to his tail will usually go up, his ears will usually lay flat against his head, and his lips will
stretch all the way back, exposing every tooth. The "aggressive" element is during that brief
second when the dog strikes out at the perceived threat, having exhausted all of his other options.
This strike or bite is often delivered to the hand of a person attempting to calm the dog or pet
him, and in many cases, is made to the retreating legs or backside once the person turns away.
An experienced dog trainer will recognize this as strictly fearful behavior and the term
"aggression" will be left out of the description, although the term "fear biter" may now be
correctly applied to this dog!

 In some dogs, one will see the full-blown defensive reaction well before the dog's options
to flee are exhausted. This is the dog who hackles and growls at a person who is at some distance
and is basically non-threatening. I classify this dog as being "sharp-shy"; one of the most
difficult temperament characteristics to deal with in a pet dog, and unfortunately, a common
deficit in modern pet Doberman temperament. Recognizing this behavior for what it is may be
the most important step in dealing with its modification.
The limits of socialization

 By the time a dog owner realizes that he has this particular problem with his Dobe, the
dog has probably reached adolescence at least. It is troubling to me that so many erstwhile dog
trainers and behaviorists advise this owner to set about "socializing" his dog at this point.
 The term "socialization" gets thrown around a lot. To most pet dog trainers, it means
exposing the affected dog to the people/animals/situations which produce the fearful reaction,
and either neutralizing the situation or positively reinforcing the dog's non-reaction. Depending
on where on the spectrum of expectations the trainer's and owner's hopes and beliefs fall, this can
be either a good, proactive way of helping the dog and handler, or a frustrating, time-consuming
exercise and disaster waiting to happen.

 Knowing your dog's limits is key. Expanding them a little at a time may be possible, but
expecting a quaking, fear-biting four year old dog to become a charming, confident "Lassie" will
be an exercise in futility. Yes, these things have happened successfully, but they are truly the
exception. There is a major difference between a fairly normal dog who gets spooked by men
who wear baseball caps, for instance, and the dog who has hidden behind the owner's legs from
the age of eight weeks. The former may be a somewhat shy, reserved dog who overreacts to a
particular stimulus, and a good candidate for later-life socialization. The latter is probably a
victim of poor genetics, and it is better to recognize that dog's limits right out of the gate. Proper
socialization is accomplished very early in a pup's life, and should still be attempted with the
genetically shy dog if she is in your hands as a seven or eight week old. Although you will not
necessarily make her outgoing, you will at least put in some good groundwork and help her to
feel less threatened by her world. Sadly, when most people acquire a shy dog, it is already well
into the dog's adolescence or adulthood: these are the dogs who are at shelters and dog pounds,
pups left past their prime at a pet shop, or benignly neglected pets re-homed through the
classified ads. By the time they are in their new home, socialization may be wishful thinking. If it
is not attempted with careful forethought and realistic goals, the owner may only succeed in
allowing his dog to react fearfully again and again with each attempt at exposure.     Owners who have consulted with me about their shy or sharp shy dogs inevitably talk
about socializing the dog. However, what most pet owners are doing is simply exposing the dog
to situations she can't handle, and hoping that time will take its course. Granted, in some dogs
this is successful: repeated exposure to the same stimulus may result in the dog's growing
acceptance of it. But in a truly shy dog, the owner is often not prepared to recognize the dog's
failure, and their methods of interacting with the dog during these attempts actually end up doing
more harm than good.


"Show me"
  I should move to Missouri, as their state motto is also my dog training motto.
When an owner describes an incredibly complex chain of behaviors they see in their dog,  I say
"Show me". When a dogmatic trainer who swears by the 100% effectiveness of their one chosen
method comes-a-callin' to convert me away from my balanced approach,  I say "Show me".
When a new training technique or piece of equipment shows up on the radar screen, I pack up
some dogs, go to its inventor/promoter and say "Show me". Where did I get this Doubting
Thomas-like addiction to empirical evidence?  

 The dogs. 
 Dogs are great for a lot of reasons, but one of my favorite things about them is how direct
and primitive they are. Living with our resident pack, I see the "show me" concept practiced all
the time. Hannah and Luther can have a noisy, violent argument about a toy, and then settle
down next to each other for a nap. A raised lip from Jane quietly repels Ludwig away from a
favored sleeping spot. A sudden alert bark from Java will get Tilly racing with him to the apple
trees in order to menace the chipmunks. Their communication is physical, direct and simple.
They show each other more information in the space of a ten second encounter than I can give
you in the many pages of this article. Hannah and Luther don't sit down and work out a timeshare
plan for that Gumabone. Jane doesn't reassure Ludwig that she loves him even though he can't
have her dog bed. Java doesn't encourage a reluctant Tilly to join him because maybe this time
they'll actually catch one of those little hairballs. They just show each other. Remembering this
trait is one of the best things you can do in the management and training of a shy dog.
 One scenario for you, experienced in two ways: the human, anthropomorphic way, and
the canine way.

 Mary owns a very shy dog named Boo who is spooked by the man they pass every
morning on their walk. He's a nice enough man, he doesn't really bother Mary or her dog, he's
just out for his own constitutional. Mary hates that Boo is so shy, and becomes determined to
help him overcome his fear. When she sees that her neighbor is approaching, Mary knows that
Boo is going to pull behind her and growl. So, as soon as she sees the man on the horizon, she
shortens Boo's leash so that he can't duck behind her. As the man gets closer, Boo starts to growl.
Mary decides to "explain" to Boo that he's not in danger. She strokes him gently and tells him
"Shhh, it's ok....he won't hurt you...that's a good baby, shhhh....". Based on something she read on
an Internet dog training site, she pops a piece of food in Boo's mouth right as the neighbor
passes. Boo is still growling, and although he refused the first piece of food, he's accepted the
second one. The neighbor has passed, Mary loosens up her leash, gives Boo another pat, and they
go on their way. Mary decides that this is something she can do every day, and that it can't help
but make Boo a more friendly dog.  Here's how Boo sees it:

 There's a big guy who walks by every morning, and I don't like him. He smells weird. His
nylon jogging suit makes a stange noise as he passes. He stares at me. Here he comes, I better get
safe...hey, wait a minute! I can't keep my eye on this guy if I can't get behind Mom...hey, why's
she holding me back so hard? Why are we stopping? She must hate this guy, too! Well, if she
doesn't like him, then no WAY am I gonna give him a chance. See? I was right! She's telling me
I'm good! She's glad that I'm "protecting her"! Finally, I've got some backup about this guy.
What's this? Food? Um, not right now, I still think this guy is too close. OK, now he's gone, I'll
accept my reward for scaring him off. Hey, Mom, it's ok to loosen up on my leash now. The
threat is gone, I did my job. I'll really give him hell tomorrow (just hope he never calls me on
it!). But you and me, Mom, if we're both nervous about this guy, then you'd think he'd get the
picture and not come near us in the first place.

 Uh-oh. Sounds like a communication breakdown. Mary thinks she's "socializing" Boo by
talking him through his nervous behavior. Boo thinks that Mary is also scared of the passerby,
based on her own rather intense, nervous behavior and the encouragement of her soothing voice
and petting. Boo thinks he's on to something with this growly display. Mary is treating Boo as
she would a shy child; gently explaining the intentions of the scary stranger, guaranteeing the
stranger's future actions ("He won't hurt you" "It's OK", etc). Boo is responding like an animal:
interpreting everything in the immediate present, at face value. Touching and soothing talk are
praise. Food is a reward. A tight leash implies a nervous handler. What do you think will happen
with Mary and Boo as time goes on? Call me a pessimist, but I don't foresee a happy ending
here.  

 Let's look at a different scenario; this one doesn't have any human players in it.
 A small pack of feral dogs lives in the woods of a rural town. Scavengers by definition,
one of their favorite targets is the Dumpster behind the local bar and grill. A lot of stuff falls out
of that Dumpster, and it's low enough to the ground that a couple of the taller dogs can actually
stand up and get their heads into it to pull out likely-looking pieces of garbage. The newest litter
of pups has finally reached an age where they can join the adults in their nightly foraging. It is
the pups' first trip to the Dumpster. Upon first sight of it, the pups hang back. It smells of people
around this area. The parking lot is wide open and the single light casts a stark glow on the
pavement. Everything looks strange and threatening. The Dumpster itself is large and when the
older dogs stand up to investigate it, it makes frightening noises as their nails scrape its metal
surface. The pups spook and startle every time a piece of paper rattles or a can falls to the
ground. At no time does their mom or an older relative come back for them and explain what's
going on. None of the older dogs discuss the relative risks and merits of Doggy Dumpster
Diving, nor does a caring aunt gently stroke the paw of the nervous pup as he gingerly explores
the options. No way. These are DOGS. They go about their business and have a real feast for
themselves. And if the pups don't get it together and come to the "table", then it's all the more
buffalo wings and dinner rolls for their elders to enjoy. Eventually, the pups will take the cue
from their packmates and will learn that their spooky, shy reaction doesn't get them anything but
hungry. In other words, they have just acted upon one of the Basic Tenets of Dogdom:
"Show me."  

While I'm oft heard to say that dog training isn't brain surgery, let's do a little bit of brain
surgery anyway. Let's take the brain of those feral pups' mother and squeeze it into Mary's
cranium. What happens on their next walk?

 Mary sees that the neighbor is approaching. As far as she knows, he's not a crazed doggy
serial killer. He doesn't do anything inappropriate around Boo, like trying to pet him without
permission, or acting nervously himself. He usually gives Boo a quick look, but who could
blame him? Boo's a good sized dog who sometimes has something to say about people passing
by. Nope, the neighbor is no threat, and frankly, Mary's sick of Boo acting like a nervous mouse
everytime he passes. Mary has been doing some decent obedience training with Boo, teaching
him that she always has the better idea about how to act in certain situations. (This is thanks to
her dog-brain transplant, too.) One of their favorite commands is "heel": a "heel" command from
Mary will find Boo watching her closely while staying immediately to her left on a nice loose
leash. She practiced this with the help of an instructor and worked her way from the privacy and
sterility of the training room to more distracting situations like a soccer field and on her daily
walks. So when she sees her neighbor approaching, she doesn't give Boo the chance to work
himself up. She simply gives him a calm, confident "heel" command and keeps going. She
doesn't stop in her tracks, feed him a treat, ask the neighbor to walk by four or five times so she
can practice, promise Boo an ice cream if he just minds his manners. Nope. She just keeps on
walking. If Boo maintains a loose leash and pays attention as they pass, perhaps she gives him a
quiet but sincere, "Good boy!". Boo has learned that the most effective way to pass the neighbor
safely is by following his mom's lead and just doing it. Mary and Boo have just acted out the
"Show me" concept. If they are able to do this every day, they will accomplish more in a couple
of weeks than any amount of treats and petting will in months.

Obedience training with a purpose
 The natural instinct of most pet dog owners is to shield their shy dog from any perceived
discomfort or hardship. Unfortunately, depending on your dog's level of shyness, this may
include nearly everything except bedrest and a "dog in the plastic bubble" existence. Possibly the
best, most productive approach to a shy dog is via reasonable obedience training.
 Rather than open the can of worms that is the discussion of dog training methodology ,
let's just say this: you are in this for results. There are many "psychoanalytical" approaches to
training which will make you feel very good about your insight into your dog's psyche, but
which will have you and your shy dog living in a proverbial bunker. Likewise, there are many
"academically sound" methods of reconditioning a shy dog which will take months, sometimes
years, to reach their potential, and which will usually cost you dearly in terms of time, patience
and money. It is entirely up to you which approach you take. But for the sake of your dog, please
try to remember his canine code of behavior: "Show me".
 
Your trainer should be willing to discuss all possible outcomes of the work with you. He should
be able to refer you to happy clients whose dogs' behaviors were at least as extreme as yours. He
should encourage you to have realistic goals: these should not include hiding your dog forever
from reality, nor should they include a guaranteed social butterfly in every situation. Whatever methods and tools he embraces, they should be geared toward the future ability to predict and
control the dog off lead in your home, at least. If the word "only" is espoused in his training
philosophy ("positive only", "we only use head halters", "prong collars only") be very careful.
The total embrace of one tool or approach has hurt many more dogs than it's helped. If you like
the odds that your dog will come out on the good side of that ledger, it's your decision.
 Do treats and petting have their place? Absolutely. But just as good timing is necessary in
delivering a correction, it's equally important in the delivering of a reward. A mistimed pat or
treat may imply to the dog that the very thing you're trying to eradicate is actually his ticket to
the goody train. Working with an experienced, balanced trainer who understands this is
imperative. Timing and intuition cannot be learned from a book, a seminar or even a college
course. A trainer who has worked with hundreds or thousands of dogs is likely to have met with
a number of dogs like yours, and can help you cut to the chase and learn the best approach and
schedule of reinforcement for your dog and situation.

 Does medication have its place? Again, absolutely. As with any aberrant behavior,
extreme shyness in a dog should be examined medically before undertaking a training regimen.
Vision and hearing problems, brain tumors, seizure disorders; all are potential contributors to
extremely shy or defensive behavior. Likewise, if you are dealing with a genetically shy or
sharp-shy dog, the intelligent use of behavioral meds may be very helpful, along with a
corresponding behavior modification program. This is between you and your vet, who will
usually refer you to a behaviorist. Finding a behaviorist who actually trains dogs is difficult.
Finding a trainer who can adapt your behaviorist's suggestions into real world training will be
somewhat easier.

 What is the place of obedience training in rehabbing the shy dog? Simply put: confidence
building. Dogs do not become confident through human explanation, as we learned from Mary
and Boo. Having consistent, calm direction from their two-legged "pack leader" is usually the
most glaring omission in the life of a shy dog. Learning how to teach and reinforce the "Basic
Five" obedience commands (heel, sit, stay, down, come) is one of the best things you can do for
your shy dog. Rather than practicing them once a week in the obedience class and then only
breaking them out when you're in crisis mode, learn how to utilize the Basic Five all the time: in
your house, in your own back yard, at the vet's, in the car, on walks, etc. Contrary to what most
pet owners think, this doesn't make a dog a mindless, unhappy robot. Instead, it makes him trust
in his owner's judgement, and gain confidence in his own ability to deal with even scary
situations. Again, no amount of training will totally change a dog's temperament or personality.
But by giving him another option besides defense or flight, it certainly can change his reactions
to situations where that personality seems to be at its full blown worst.

Your dog is YOUR dog
 Based on everything you've read, perhaps you're feeling a little more confident yourself,
now! Time to sign up with that good trainer for some lessons. Dust off those walking shoes and
start taking your shy dog out into the real world. Determined to "show" rather than "tell", you've
got a whole new outlook about this stuff. Well that's great! But before you and your shy dog go
out to conquer the universe, let me remind you of this:  Your dog is YOUR dog. You may never have that goofy, friendly, social butterfly you hoped for. Likewise, you will probably not end up with a modern Rin Tin Tin who knows how to bite a bad guy and guard a wayward toddler. It ain't gonna happen. Your shy dog will almost always have suspicion of strangers. He will quite possibly never want your friends and neighbors to physically touch him. And that's OK. He's YOUR dog. Not your friends'. Not your neighbor's. He needs to hold it together and accept physical attention from you, any household members, and your vet. And that's it. Expecting a shy dog to change dramatically will only disappoint you in the long run. He may, through the steps addressed in this booklet, learn how to be approached
and greeted by a few core people. But remember that every time you introduce him to a new
situation, environment or person, that you are back at Square One and must act accordingly.

Stop letting strangers pet your shy dog. For every careful, respectful person who follows
your directions to the letter, there will be a person who moves erratically, who disregards your
suggestions about approaching, or who puts his face immediately in your dog's face. If a stranger
asks if he can pet your dog, thank him for being so considerate. Then explain that your dog is
currently in training and prefers to be admired without being touched. Be very careful of the idiot
who assures you that she "has a way with dogs" or " a way with animals". If she did have a "way
with dogs" then she would never trespass on their personal space without your permission: space
is a resource every normal dog respects about every other dog. You will undoubtedley run across
some folks who think that your dog is a terrible creature if he is not approachable and pettable by
a stranger. Try to let these people stew in their delusions about canine reality. You and your dog
know better. When someone approaches me and asks to pet a couple of my dogs, my response is
usually, "I appreciate your asking permission, And actually, I'd rather you didn't pet this guy.
He's in training right now."  If you're working with a good trainer, he should be able to help you
determine if and when your dog is ready to be approached by a friendly stranger. You may never
get to that point, and you have to accept that.

Shy dogs can be the most challenging to own. One must love them without pitying them,
and one must bring them out into the world without overwhelming them. The happy, affectionate
dog whose companionship you treasure may never show that face to anyone but you. It is up to
you whether you view this as a gift or a burden. My advice is to accept it as both.  

Dominance - it just won't go away

If I had a penny for every time somebody tells me that a dog's behaviour is dominant I would be a very wealthy person. Sadly the myth that dogs have some innate desire to assert themselves over their owners seem stuck. Any time a dog acts up the first thing that many owners say is that the dog is being dominant and as such either needs to be punished or shown 'who's boss'. Often this couldn't be further from the truth.  The American Society of Pet Dog Trainers has an interesting chart with examples of unwanted behaviours and how many owners choose to ascribe them to 'dominance', alongside there are suggestions of what might be the real cause of the problem. Take a look at it and see whether you're guilty of making this mistake.

Dominance chart - alternative explanations

Also worth reading is the APDT's thoughts on dominance and its impact on dog training.

Dominance and Dog training

Fearful growling troubleshooting- strangers, dogs etc

From Dog Star Daily

An otherwise well-socialized dog may growl when approached. A long and protracted growl is not necessarily sign of an impending attack, rather the dog is warning us that he feels decidedly uneasy. When his personal space is violated, the dog has two options — to retreat, or, to convince the intruder to retreat. In many situations however, the dog’s retreat is prevented, for example, when on leash, when restrained during a veterinary examination, or when playfully cornered by a child and so, the dog can only growl as a signal that he is feeling uneasy and to warn people to stay away. The growl is not necessarily an indication of an irreparably flawed temperament but rather, the growl is simply an advertisement of the dog's discomfort at having been forced into a threatening situation for which he has been given insufficient preparation, i.e., the owner is trying to push the dog too far too fast. And if owners continue to push the dogs, many growling dogs will eventually bite.
Such behavior problems may be adequately resolved using progressive desensitization techniques but of course, they are much more easily prevented during puppyhood via routine proofing and confidence building exercises. In effect, all we have to teach the dog is that other dogs and people — especially strangers and children — are no threat and then, the dog has no reason to growl. The owner must first deal with the underlying confidence problem and then, train the dog not to growl.
The relative ease of prevention and treatment should not seduce one to adopt a cavalier attitude. The problem is extremely serious and a delinquent response on behalf of the owner spells disaster for the dog and danger for strangers and children. Until the problem is resolved, common sense dictates that the dog be appropriately controlled and/or confined at all times and should never be allowed on public property, or around strangers and children. Without appropriate treatment, the dog's confidence and behavior will worsen with each exposure to threatening situations (e.g., crowded places, or veterinary clinics).
Dogs growl because they are insecure and anxious in social situations. If the underlying insecurity is not resolved, the growls will become warnings of escalating aggression.  Aside from obvious safety concerns, we must also address the dog’s peace of mind. It is decidedly not pleasant to feel anxious yet be forced to face your biggest fears on a daily basis. If a dog feels anxious around people, it is simply unfair, cruel even, to force the dog to frequent places where there are lots of people. Regardless of the reasons for the dog’s fear, there is a huge urgency to resolve the problem — to rebuild the dog’s confidence — so that your dog can get his life back.

The “Solution” Becomes The Problem
If an owner is nervous or reactive, the dog will likely become nervous and reactive. As the dog starts “acting up”, the handler becomes more apprehensive. As the dog senses the rising tension, he becomes increasingly “on edge”. A vicious circle quickly develops as the dog's uneasiness fuels the owner's anxiety and vice versa. The approach of a stranger may be the last straw that prompts the dog to growl and maybe bite.
Limiting treatment to punishing the dog for growling usually makes matters worse. The dog is growling because he feels uptight in specific situations, for example, when approached by a stranger. If the dog is punished, he now has two reasons to be uptight — the initial reason — lack of confidence and now, the prospect of correction, or punishment, which further destroys his confidence.
In many cases, punishment causes the growling to increase in frequency. This is not a learning paradox but rather, physical punishment is a common cause for growling. Any punishment in a stressful situation will only make the dog more on edge.  Another vicious circle develops, whereby the more the dog is punished, the more he has reason to growl and hence, the more he is punished etc. The “attack” by the handler  — the dog's only immediate ally — tends to make dogs especially nervous and “spooky”. It must be extremely unsettling for a dog to have his best friend suddenly turn against him in times of need. At first the dog may be puzzled by the handler's unpredictable outbursts. Soon, however, the dog learns that the handler's uneasiness is contingent upon the specific situation, e.g., approach by another dog, or a stranger. As such, the stranger's approach now becomes a signal that forewarns the dog that punishment is imminent. Most dogs do not like it when their owners become anxious, apprehensive, or agitated and so, the dog now has a third reason to growl — to keep the stranger at bay, in order to prevent the owner from becoming uneasy.  It as if the dog is trying to communicate to the approaching dog or stranger, “Keep back! My owner is untrustworthy around other people and dogs.”
Characteristically, the dog develops a Jekyll-and-Hyde-type personality. Owners often report that their dog is perfectly fine off-leash but that he invariably becomes reactive on-leash (i.e., with his owner close) and when other dogs and strangers approach.  Ironically, the dog probably has the same view about the owner. “My owner is just wonderful most of the time. She comes from exceptional breeding stock and she is perfect when off-leash but … she simply cannot be trusted on-leash around other people or dogs.”
Even more dangerous are cases wherein punishment successfully inhibits growling yet does nothing to resolve, or even exacerbates, the underlying problem. The dog still feels uptight, but no longer gives warning. The dog still doesn’t like strangers and wants to growl, but dare not. This is akin to a smoke alarm with no batteries, or a time-bomb with no tick. The dog's temperament is still extremely unstable but on the surface, all appears to be well. When dogs are agitated, the very last thing to do is stop them from growling. I mean that literally. Of course, the dog should be trained to stop growling, but only once the underlying confidence problem has been resolved.

Proofing
Temperament training involves two-stage progressive desensitization, whereby the dog learns not only to tolerate the proximity and contact of strangers but also, to thoroughly enjoy their company and actions (even including mildly aversive handling). Progressive desensitization basically comprises shaping the classical conditioning process. Once the dog eagerly welcomes strangers and is no longer intimidated by their actions, and hence has no reason to act defensively, he may be taught to "Shush!" on command, as described in Malamute Memories.
Various desensitization and classical conditioning techniques have been descried in other articles, e.g., Retreat ‘n Treat and specific “ouch-tests”, “grab-tests” and other confidence building exercises are illustrated in the SIRIUS® Puppy TrainingDVDs. In fact, lure-reward (non-contact) training techniques (illustrated in the DVDs) are the techniques de rigueur for working with fearful and/or aggressive dogs. It is important for strangers not to reach for, or touch, fearful dogs during training, because proximity and contact by strangers is often the trigger. Similarly, merely contacting, let alone correcting an aggressive dog may precipitate aggressive behavior. The idea is to alleviate the problem, not make it worse.
The prime directive in rehabilitation is that no stranger be allowed to approach, let alone touch, the dog, until the dog has both the confidence and the inclination to approach and contact the stranger. A fearful or aggressive dog should never be “flooded” by a social stimulus. The social stimulus, e.g., person or another dog, should never be allowed to approach. Instead the dog must be given ample time and opportunity to retreat, or approach when ready.
Therapy hinges on getting the dog to approach a stranger voluntarily. Enticing the dog to approach for the first time is the most time consuming aspect of treatment, thereafter training proceeds quickly and smoothly. Training is facilitated using both counterconditioning and troubleshooting techniques. Rather than antagonizing the dog's condition, by subjecting him to infrequent and scary hugging or examination by strangers often followed by correction and punishment, the goal is to progressively build the dog's confidence via several hundred gentle approaches and brief examinations, each with pleasant consequences. It is important not to push the dog too far too fast. The dog must always have the option of retreating.

Counterconditioning 
Before involving a stranger, the owner should teach the dog how he is expected to act around people. Knowing acceptable protocol, i.e., knowing “what to do”, often reduces anxiety when under stress. For example, for people who are nervous when speaking in public, reading from cue cards is less nerve-racking than giving an extemporaneous address in front of two thousand people. It is easier for the dog to be in a controlled position when being examined, but let's forget the stand for examination until the dog has completely overcome his fear of strangers. The stand-stay is the most unstable of the four basic stays and most probably, instructing the dog to stand already has unpleasant associations. To continue to force the dog to stand for examination will destroy the dog's stand-stay in short order.  Instead, once the dog voluntarily approaches each person, we will teach him to first sit for examination and later to lie down, or roll over, when being examined. The stand-stay will be reintroduced once the dog is no longer afraid of people.
Troubleshooting 
To expedite desensitization, it is advisable to subject the dog to a couple of hundred sit for examinations, involving half a dozen or so strangers, in a single session. Multiple approaches are essential for success, since the first approach is always the most frightening and time consuming. Thereafter, the dog builds confidence with each examination.
Whether performed as a preventive exercise for puppies and good natured adult dogs, or as a therapeutic exercise for growly adult dogs, the following procedure may be applied to a single dog at home or in a private consultation, or in a class format as described below.

Confidence Building Classes 
One or more six-week classes may be required to rehabilitate adult fearful dogs. However, the lengthy procedure explained below may be, and should be, conducted during a Puppy Class as a preventive exercise, in just a fraction of the time.
Each dog attends class with his owner and a friend. In Week 1 the owner teaches the dog the routine described below, with the friend holding the leash and then, the friend works the dog while the owner holds the leash. Once owner and friend have each approached the dog twenty- or thirty-times, the friends continue to restrain the dogs on leash while the owners work as strangers with the next dog in line. The entire process is repeated with at least twice as many trials, before the owners move on to work with the next dog in the line, and so forth.
To encourage the dogs to approach strangers, work with hungry dogs and plenty of tasty food treats. Remember that strangers cannot use the rewards that they would normally use when training their own dogs — praise and petting. A stranger’s voice, approach and hand-contact are the very triggers that precipitate fearfulness and aggression.  During rehabilitation, ONLY feed dogs from the hand. Any time you feed a dog from a food bowl is a terrible waste of potential rewards in training that otherwise could have helped the dog overcome his fears.  Feeding a dog from a food bowl hijacks training.
Because the dogs will receive a whole bunch of treats in a single session, do not use junk-food treats, or else the dogs will end up with livers like geese.  Instead, use the dog's regular dry kibble garnished with a little freeze-dried liver. Each day, weigh out the dogs daily ration of kibble, put it in a plastic bag with a pinch of freeze-dried liver powder, shake well and use as directed. Tonight the dog will eat dinner, handfed by strangers. Obviously, if any dog has a history of lunging, snapping, or nipping, muzzle the dog. Wearing an open-ended muzzle, a dog may safely take treats from the open hand.  If the dog has any history of biting (puncturing the skin), the following procedure should be conducted as a private consultation and not in a public class.
1. Even though your dog quickly learned to approach you and your friend, it is highly unlikely he will run straight up to take a treat from the first stranger. However, it is usually possible to entice the dog to approach at least part of the way. See Retreat ‘n Treat. If the stranger stands at a distance where the dog feels comfortable, tosses a treat and then steps back, characteristically, the dog will tentatively approach to grab the treat before bidding a hasty retreat. Characteristically, fearful dogs vacillate between approach and avoidance as they build confidence. If they are allowed to retreat and approach in their own good time, the vacillation gradually disappears, especially if the stranger retreats each time the dog approaches. After a number of trials, the dog will approach and take food from the stranger’s hand. Repeat this a number of times, with the stranger always stepping back as the dog takes the food, thus encouraging the dog to approach once more. Each approach builds confidence.
2. Once the dog approaches readily, use a lure-hand signal to entice the dog to sit before receiving the food reward. Again, lure-reward techniques are absolutely essential when training fearful dogs to approach and sit. The stranger must never approach, reach for, or touch the dog until he eagerly and enthusiastically approaches and sits.
3. Once the dog has approached and sat to take treats several times in a row, rather than giving the treat, instruct the dog to sit-stay and step back a couple of paces (with the dog restrained on leash). The dog has become accustomed to receiving a treat immediately upon sitting and hence, will exclaim the canine equivalent of: "Yo! Get back here with my treat". The stranger may now safely approach to offer the treat since the dog is no longer afraid. (Only seconds previously, he had voluntarily approached and nuzzled the stranger's hand.) The dog is now kept in a sit-stay while the stranger alternately retreats and approaches (and treats) the dog several times in succession, progressively increasing the speed and varying the manner with each approach.
4. Once the dog is accustomed to any manner, or speed, of approach, the stranger may stand in front of the dog and periodically offer treats while the dog remains in a sit-stay. When the dog is thoroughly at ease with the stranger’s presence (and presents), the handler may slowly reach for the dog and briefly scratch him behind his ear with one hand, while offering a treat with the other hand. This is repeated many times over, progressively increasing the scratching-time with each treat until substantial petting (examination) is possible. The speed of hand movement and the vigorousness of contact are gradually increased with each trial. After sufficient repetitions, the stranger will be able to quickly grab the dog's scruff and hold on firmly and the dog will say, "Where's my treat good buddy? Go on, grab me again!"
If ever the dog appears to be apprehensive, baulks, or lowers his head when touched, immediately back-pedal and happily call the dog, i.e., go back to square one and start again — the dog was being pushed too far too fast. It is important to proceed slowly. A single mistake — just a little impatience — will cause an enormous retrograde step.
5. Once the dog feels comfortable with approach and contact, it is time to combine the two exercises. With the dog in a sit-stay, back-up, approach, instruct the dog to sit, reach for his collar and offer the treat. Repeat this many times over, varying both the speed and nature of the approach and contact.
The above routine is repeated in Week 2 with the same people, each carrying something, e.g., walking stick, umbrella, clip board, etc.  Weeks 3 & 4 are similar to Weeks 1 & 2, but employing a down for examination instead of the sit, and in Week 4 everybody wears something a little out of the ordinary, e.g., floppy hats, sunglasses, false beards, sou'wester and Wellies, Mickey Mouse masks, frogman's flippers, etc. Week 5 introduces the stand for examination and Week 6 the rollover for examination. However, by now, the dogs are no longer afraid of people and so their approach will not untowardly affect the dogs’ stays.  Additionally in Week 6, everybody wears a costume, walks silly and talks silly. At this stage, the many strangers (now, all good buddies) may run and shout and grab the dog, which happily and confidently remains to be handled.
If necessary the six-week course may be repeated with a new selection of strangers but additionally, the above procedure should be repeated with every person who comes in contact with the dog as part of routine canine husbandry. Temperament training never stops.
The dog no longer growls when the stranger approaches, because he is no longer afraid of strangers, so now it is time to teach the dog to "Shush!" on cue. Should the dog ever growl at anyone in the future, instruct the dog to shush (so as not to frighten people) and immediately remove the dog from the stressful situation (because he is still frightened). And then it is time for MUCH more classical conditioning and desensitization. You stopped training because you thought the dog was better. Remember, behavior never remains the same. If you continue to train your dog, his behavior will continue to improve. But as soon as you stop training, your dog’s behavior will begin to drift downhill. And so, keep training.

This article is based on Dr. Dunbar's Behavior column in the June 1989 issue of the American Kennel Gazette. Reprinted with permission of the author and the American Kennel Club.

Food for thought for toy dog owners...

PROTECTING THE LITTLE DOG

From Dog Star Daily - Cindy Bruckart

Do little dogs really need extra protection?  In some cases, perhaps.  Generally, they don't.  What small dogs really need is to learn how to navigate and negotiate the big, wide world full of bigger dogs, large humans and clumbsy little humans.

Little dogs MUST learn as small puppies (ages 8 - 16 weeks) that running from bigger dogs will lead to being chased and that they can stop larger puppies from smooshing them by giving some puppy feedback.  I get really excited when a large breed pup puts a heavy paw on a small breed pup, receives a squeal or a snark and quickly learns that he must be more careful with this little dog.  At the same time, the smaller pup learns that she DOES have some control over the situation.  She learns that she CAN speak up, keep herself protected and play with the big guys.  To me, this is a wonderous thing!

A small breed pup who is constantly held and sheltered never gets the opportunity to figure out how to interact with others.  Instead, the world is a scary place that must be kept at bay with nipping, whining and growling.  Hands are constantly coming at these little dogs while they are being restrained, up in the air.  THAT is scary!

Just as the Rottweiler may begin to think that people are strange and unpredictable because they get defensive and nervous in the Rottie's presence, small breed dogs can pick up on their owner's anxiety in the presence of bigger dogs and children.  I wonder if these dogs are actually afraid of the other dogs and children, or if they've learned that when other dogs or children arrive on the scene, they are going to be scooped up and restrained by a nervous owner.

Of course we should be careful when dogs of different sizes are playing together.  Big groups of dogs at dog daycare or a dog park are better off being separated by size and play style.  But when pups are pups, between the ages of 8 - 16 weeks, they MUST play with other puppies of all shapes, sizes and play styles.  This is the time when it's safe for little dogs to learn confidence and bigger dogs to learn to be gentle.

For more information on raising a small breed dog properly, read Small Dogs, Big Hearts:  A Guide to Caring for your Little Dog, by Darlene Arden.

Punishment - a bad word?

From Dog Star daily - By L. Whelan

Punishment has become such a bad word of late within popular dog training media.

There are some trainers that say they only use Positive Reinforcement. The word punishment invokes certain feelings and ideas in many people’s minds. From personal experience it seems, choke chains, alpha rolls, slapping or hitting etc. Yes all off these things could be described as punishing – perhaps! Read on…

To understand what a punisher is we need to understand learning theory. Punishment is something that reduces behaviour. Reinforcement is something that increases behaviour. Now, take the choke chain example – if I stop choking the dog when he sits down, I have just used the removal of the choke chain as reinforcement for the dog to sit! This is called Negative Reinforcement – the removal of an unpleasant/undesirable stimulus when the desired behaviour occurs.

The word punishment is no-where to be seen in this situation – however, of course this is not something that should ever be done to a dog! It is a fact that it is impossible to train a dog without the use of punishment! Think about it. If your dog jumps up on you and you ignore him i.e. remove the reinforcement of your attention. This will over time reduce the jumping up behaviour. This process is known as Negative Punishment! This is what a “positive reinforcement trainer” does.

However, none of us would ever say that we use Negative Punishment to a client – because of the perceived notion of what the word punishment means. Telling a child that they won’t get any ice-cream until they stop their tantrum is Negative Punishment! Negative Punishment sounds terrible, but when it’s explained, it is of course is the ethical way to deal with that situation. Slapping the child to stop the tantrum is called positive punishment – this is the addition of an unpleasant stimulus in order to reduce a specific behaviour. Punishment has become such a bad word and I believe undermines people’s ability to truly understand how their dogs learn.

What the solution is I’m not sure – the general public is already bombarded with so many notions and ideas about what makes a good dog trainer.

Ethical Training is a term I like to use. Which would incorporate both the use of Positive Reinforcement and Negative Punishment in training and is a more correct way of describing how we should train our dogs.

Teaching your dog to be home alone

By Robert Abrantes

You can teach your dog to be home alone in five steps. The earlier you begin, the better.

Number one canine problem behavior is “home alone.” Don’t panic if someone tells you that your dog suffers from separation anxiety. It’s probably not the case. Anxiety is a serious disorder and most dogs don’t have any anxiety when left alone. They are either under-stimulated and burn their surplus energy by wrecking the furniture, they’re having fun and don’t know that it is wrong to destroy human possessions, or the owners have not taught them the desired routines when left home alone. There is a good chance that you can solve the problem with my five steps program.

You’re not alone. Problems with dogs that can’t be home alone (I call it CHAP=Canine Home Alone Problem) is the most common problem all over the world when we keep dogs as pets. Everybody seems to have a different idea as how to solve the problem. Remember the principle: too many cooks spoil the broth. If you choose to follow some other method, please do it and don’t even bother reading the following. If you choose to follow my five steps method, stick to it and don’t listen to what others tell you.

Teach your dog to be home alone in five steps:

• DLO means desired learning objective.
• QC means Quality Control and indicates the number of times in a row (or similar criteria) you must have accomplished your DLO successfully before you move to the next step.

1. Teach the dog to associate the bed (crate, blanket, spot, or whatever you have chosen) with positive experiences.

DLO: The dog likes to lie down on the bed. 

QC: The dog goes often and voluntarily to its bed.

• Throw a couple of treats on the bed of the dog (without the dog seeing it) whenever there are none left.
• Whenever the dog lies on the bed, reinforce it verbally (don’t exaggerate, so that the dog gets up).
• Sometimes, pet the dog when it lies on the bed (calmly).
• Send the dog to bed with a particular signal, e.g. “bed” 10-20 times daily.
• Send the dog to its bed often when you watch TV, read the news, do computer work, etc.

2. Teach the dog meaning of the word “bed.”

DLO: The dog goes to the bed after you say “bed” without any problems.

QC: Ten successive correct behaviors.

• Send the dog to the bed with the word “bed” by pointing to the bed or throwing a treat on the bed.
• Use only the word “bed.” Don’t say anything else.
• Reinforce it verbally, calmly so it remains on the bed.

3. The dog lies down on the bed even if you walk away.

DLO: The dog lies down on the bed even if you walk away. 

QC: Ten successive correct behaviors.

• Send the dog to the bed with the word “bed.”
• Reinforce it verbally, calmly so it remains on the bed.
• Stop reinforcing it immediately if it should leave within 10 seconds and ignore it for a couple of minutes. (Important: those two minutes must be particularly boring for the dog).

• Start all over until the dog remains on the bed even if you walk away.

4. Teach the dog to stay on the bed.

DLO: The dog lies on the bed for three minutes after you leave the room.

QC: Ten successive correct behaviors.

• Reinforce the dog verbally as soon as it lies on the bed after you said “bed.” Be calm.
• When the dog lies quietly on the bed, leave the room for two seconds, then come back.

• Repeat, leaving the room at irregular intervals and for irregular periods, e.g. 5 s, 30 s, 4 s, 1 minute, etc.
• If the dog remains on the bed, do nothing.
• Should the dog leave its bed, send it back and start all over.

5.  Teach the dog to stay on the bed when you leave the room and close the door.

DLO: You can leave the dog and close the door without any problem.

QC:  Ten successive correct behaviors.

• As soon as you can leave the room three minutes without the dog leaving its bed, repeat procedures in point 4 but beginning to close the door.
• The first times, do not close the door, only touch it.
• The following times, leave the door ajar.
• Then, leave the room, close the door for two seconds, open it and enter the room. If all is all right, do not pay attention to the dog. Otherwise, start all over with point 5.
• Finally, leave the room, close the door, stay out for irregular periods, open it and enter the room. If all is all right, do not pay attention to the dog.

Maintaining the good behavior

• Even when you’re home, leave the dog alone sometimes. Do not pay attention to it all the time.
• Always stimulate the dog properly before leaving. Remember: too little and too much are equally wrong.
• Give the dog something to do when you leave. You don’t even need to invest in expensive toys. A plastic bottle full of treats will keep the dog busy for a while figuring out how to take them out (watch the dog the first couple of times and encourage it, if necessary, to toss the bottle around and not bite it).
• Place the dog’s bed in a central place in the house (living room). Most dogs don’t like to feel isolated.
• Continue using “bed” and continue making the bed attractive with occasional treats, verbal reinforcing and petting (all very calmly).
• Make sure the bed is not too clean (most dogs don’t appreciate our flagrance drenched laundry), nor too dirty and is doggy-comfortable.
• Pick up your keys often (or put on your shoes, cap or whatever you normally do before you leave) so that the dog disassociates these cues with being left alone.

Here is some explanation for those of you interested in the principles of these five-steps method:

• We create a positive association with the bed so that the dog will go often and voluntarily to its bed.
• We get the dog used to lie on the bed when we are at home either relaxing or doing our home work. After all, the ideal dog is the dog that it quiet at home and active when out.
• We teach the dog the meaning of the word “bed.”
• We get the dog used to us leaving the room and coming back as a normal routine.
• We teach the dog to associate the door with a normal routine.
• We create a routine for the dog that when there’s nothing to do at home, the best is to go to bed.

You maximize your chances of speedy success if:

• The dog sleeps on its bed at night and (even better) if it doesn’t sleep in the same room as you.
• The dog is routinely well stimulated (under-stimulated dogs are more difficult to teach to be home alone)
• The dog is not hyper-active and over-stimulated (over-stimulated dogs have difficulties in remaining in the same spot for longer periods of time).

Important for you:

• Be calm no matter what you do.
• Advance step by step.
• Be patient.
• Control your emotions and behavior when you succeed as well as when you fail.
• If you haven’t anything important to say to the dog, be quiet.
• It’s your responsibility alone to understand and implement this five-steps program and to adjust them if needed, not the dog’s.
• If my five steps method don’t seem to solve the problem, it may be that your dog shows genuine separation anxiety in which case you must contact a competent specialist.